[Rovernet] 3500S front brake bleed valve

[GeffMcCarthy]

Dermot, thanks to you, thanks to all.  My Main Man Neville Baker (a Kiwi
Transplant and Portland asset) smacked the offending nipple thrice with a
hammer, put on vice grips and turned it free. Fortunately, I was not strong
enough to have jammed the opposite. We bled a bit of lurking air, and the
Red Rover runs - and STOPS! - as she should.
Yes, please on the brakes and emblem, but no rush.
I think I have some bits for a 3500S heater with A/C, but maybe not the
whole assembly. 
AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)


-----Original Message-----
From: Rovernet [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.org] On Behalf Of Dermot
Harvey
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 2:07 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] 3500S front brake bleed valve

Geoff,

I like Roger's idea of putting an 'easyout' into the bleeder hole -it is all
too easy to break the bleed nipples off. Not sure about heating the nipple
red hot - would this decrease the temper of the steel and make it weaker?
Could you quench the steel after heating it red hot with some oil? This
should retemper it I think (Any Metallurgists out there ?) I always coat the
bleed nipples with Girling red rubber grease before retightening them.
I just got my 1971 2000 TC back together. The new clutch feels great. I
ended up taking out the engine. I am still trying to figure out how to
completely remove the AC - I might need a donor heater assembly for a 2000
if anyone has one.
Geoff, I'll try to work on those calipers and badge for you.
Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

Dermot Harvey


On Nov 21, 2013, at 7:03 AM, roger matheson wrote:

> Hi Geoff,
> 
> No ball.  The end of the screw is tapered and fits into a similar shaped
cone in the caliper.  It is easy to screw them up too tight and then they
get stuck.  I agree with all the above methods.  Let me add some more.  1.
File two flats on either side of the screw so as to fit the largest shifting
spanner you own. 2. Insert an "esyout" into the hole of the bleed screw as
this will add twisting effort on any of the methods you try. 3. Some times a
rounded screw isn't perfectly round, with a slightly smaller ring spanner
see if you can tap it onto the screw with a hammer so as to carve grooves in
the screw as the peeks of the spanner bite into the metal.  In Oz you can
buy "Mole" locking pliers, also "Stilsons" .  There geometry in like pipe
spanners which means that they grip tighter as you pull.  Alternatively use
mutigrips but tighten a metal hose clamp over the ends of the handles to
increase and maintain the squeezing grip. I would always soak in plenty of
releasing fluid first.  Wire brush all dirt off the the screw so the fluid
can penetrate into the thread.  When you have undone the screw, make sure
you clean the mating surfaces and smear with brake fluid before putting in a
new one and don't tighten it too much.
> 
> Please let us know how you go because I am not sure whether you guys hear
us in Oz.
> Cheers Roger
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "GeffMcCarthy" 
> <geffandjulie at comcast.net>
> To: "'Rovernet'" <rovernet at rovernet.org>
> Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 10:23 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet] 3500S front brake bleed valve
> 
> 
>> I have rounded the 3/8 front bleed nipple, and cannot free it.  My 
>> mechanic, Neville, needs to know if it is a taper, or a ball valve.  
>> The calipers, AFAIK, are original, and I think, rebuilt by White Post.
>> 
>> Help please!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> AvMedSafe
>> 
>> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
>> 
>> 677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
>> 
>> 503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)
>> 
>> 
>> 
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