[Rovernet] 2000 Clutch

Sat Oct 26 19:09:34 EDT 2013

Dermot-
Before you begin, are you quite certain that there is clearance on the 
clutch slave pushrod? It was very common that adjustments had been 
neglected until the clutch began to slip; if not allowed to go on too 
long, a one minute fix. I knew of more than one shop or mechanic who 
deliberately adjusted the things to no clearance, knowing full well the 
car would be back in a few weeks for a clutch job - which would be 
charged at full price, with only a readjust actually done. This on any 
car without a self adjusting feature as MG had.

Having done the job both ways, I'd rather remove the engine. You have to 
remove or disconnect most all the same stuff, but that gearbox can get 
hung up in all sorts of ways you can't imagine - and has a fearsome 
appetite for fingers. I always took out the entire booster block; Rover 
made it so easy, with the 4 pipe unions right on top. Bleeding is not 
difficult, and in any event, periodic brake fluid flushes are highly 
recommended for system life. AKA flush it now or rebuild it soon.

FRM

On 10/26/2013 6:12 PM, Dermot Harvey wrote:
> Hi Rovernetters!
>
> Wow, what a treasure trove of info out there! Thanks all of you for your suggestions.
> Funny that in an otherwise excellent shop manual there is no mention of getting at the clutch to replace it.
> I think I'm going to go the 'engine stays in route' as I am still reasonably strong and I seem to remember the gearbox is fairly light. The best reason for removing the whole lump is that its much easier to reattach the gearbox after replacing the clutch. However, going into the braking system to remove a servo necessitates bleeding the system which is a bit of a pain
> Not sure, Alan, why you would want to remove the rocker cover.
> I do have a chain hoist, so I might use this to lift the front of the engine. Alas, no pit. American are very paranoid about pits, though I think they're still pretty popular in the UK.
> Gotta get another car on the road before I start the job - then I'll let you know how I get on.
>
> Dermot Harvey
>
> On Oct 24, 2013, at 6:17 AM, Juliet Keiler wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Hi Dermot,
>>   
>> If you have no lift then pulling the transmission from beneath is quite straightforward and the procedure is as follows.
>>   
>> In the engine bay remove the top hose, heater hoses, front stabiliser bar, carb linkage between carb & bulkhead. Loosen the engine mount nuts to the end of the thread but do NOT remove.
>>   
>> Opinion varies but I also remove the rocker cover and fan blades.
>>   
>> Beneath the car disconnect propshaft, gear lever linkage and gearbox mounting cross-bar & spring mount, reverse switch wires and speedo cable.
>>   
>> Again opinion varies but I also remove the exhaust.
>>   
>> You then jack under the front of the engine thus raising it and lowering the back, I usually get it to a position where the sump is ‘resting’ in the front x-member.
>>   
>> You then split the bell housing from the engine (in practice it may be easier to remove most of the bolts prior to tipping it back) and once separated spin the gearbox until the starter motor ‘bulge’ in the bell-housing (which prevents it being pulled straight back) is at the top in the tunnel, once up there you’ll find it has enough room to pull back and away.
>>   
>> Depending on your physical strength the box is either very heavy or quite light. I did my 1964 2000 car last Sunday and it took me about 4 hours from start to finish though I had already drained the water previously. The real key is to get the car high enough both front and back so you have room to work, if you have a pit the whole job is considerably easier.
>>   
>> Good luck and any questions please let me know and I’ll try and help.
>>   
>> Best Regards
>>   
>> Alan Francis (partviking)
>>   
>> P.S. Not sure if the second servo will cause a problem as I only have the one but there should be enough room to tip back even with two
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Dermot Harvey <roverman2 at verizon.net>
>> To: Rovernet at rovernet.org
>> Sent: Thursday, 24 October 2013, 1:05
>> Subject: [Rovernet] 2000 Clutch
>>
>>
>> Hi Rovernetters,
>>
>> Alas, my 'New' 1971 2000 has a slipping clutch!
>> It's been longer than I like to remember since I did a clutch on a 2000. I'm trying to remember whether to pull the engine and trans as a unit, or whether to pull the trans only. No lift where I am now, so it won't be easy.
>> Looks as though the brake servos might get in the way if I pull both engine and trans. Not sure about the exhaust manifold either - I don't really want to pull that.
>> Anyone have any ideas?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Dermot Harvey
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