[Rovernet] 2000 Clutch

Wed Oct 30 12:11:25 EDT 2013

Thanks again for all the advice. I went through the clutch hydraulics and rebuilt the master and slave cylinders just in case. Now, free play is another matter.
I replaced the clutch in my old TC about 20 years ago. It has always had the problem that the clutch does not always withdraw fully -sometimes reverse gear will not engage cleanly. Anyway, I checked the 'free play' in the clutch actuating lever and found it to be about half an inch at the fulcrum point of the slave cylinder pushrod. The free play in the later car, with the slipping clutch, is only 1/8 of an inch! I adjusted the clutch lever angle on this car to the correct 5 degrees off vertical. I adjusted the pushrod so that the slave cylinder did not bind at either end of its travel.
Does anyone know what the free play should be at the clutch actuating lever? The matter is complicated by the fact that only one clutch disc is now available and only an early and a late cover plate.

I think the clutch is the achilles heel in an otherwise beautifully engineered car.

Dermot Harvey

On Oct 26, 2013, at 8:11 PM, Vern Klukas wrote:

> I can attest to that, I’ve had that particular failure twice over the years. But those symptoms are not these symptoms, a slipping clutch.
> 
> Yours
> Vern
> 
> On Oct 26, 2013, at 4:28 PM, Colin Gould <scareycolin54 at live.co.uk> wrote:
> 
>> Hello all Rovernetters 
>> 
>> I haven't read all of the comments/ advice on this clutch problem ,,, however , nobody seems to have thought about the return spring in the clutch master cylinder ( which has been known to fail) ---If this spring does fail ,, the clutch will give all sorts of symptoms which appear to be "clutch failure "---but in fact can be fixed by replacing th broken spring in the clutch master cylinder !!! ----I haven't come across it recently..but it is not unknown ,,and it is a lot easier than pulling the gearbox or engine !!!
>> 
>> ttfn 
>> 
>> colin kingsdown garage England 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 19:09:34 -0400
>>> From: gofanu at cust.usachoice.net
>>> To: rovernet at rovernet.org
>>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet] 2000 Clutch
>>> 
>>> Dermot-
>>> Before you begin, are you quite certain that there is clearance on the 
>>> clutch slave pushrod? It was very common that adjustments had been 
>>> neglected until the clutch began to slip; if not allowed to go on too 
>>> long, a one minute fix. I knew of more than one shop or mechanic who 
>>> deliberately adjusted the things to no clearance, knowing full well the 
>>> car would be back in a few weeks for a clutch job - which would be 
>>> charged at full price, with only a readjust actually done. This on any 
>>> car without a self adjusting feature as MG had.
>>> 
>>> Having done the job both ways, I'd rather remove the engine. You have to 
>>> remove or disconnect most all the same stuff, but that gearbox can get 
>>> hung up in all sorts of ways you can't imagine - and has a fearsome 
>>> appetite for fingers. I always took out the entire booster block; Rover 
>>> made it so easy, with the 4 pipe unions right on top. Bleeding is not 
>>> difficult, and in any event, periodic brake fluid flushes are highly 
>>> recommended for system life. AKA flush it now or rebuild it soon.
>>> 
>>> FRM
>>> 
>>> On 10/26/2013 6:12 PM, Dermot Harvey wrote:
>>>> Hi Rovernetters!
>>>> 
>>>> Wow, what a treasure trove of info out there! Thanks all of you for your suggestions.
>>>> Funny that in an otherwise excellent shop manual there is no mention of getting at the clutch to replace it.
>>>> I think I'm going to go the 'engine stays in route' as I am still reasonably strong and I seem to remember the gearbox is fairly light. The best reason for removing the whole lump is that its much easier to reattach the gearbox after replacing the clutch. However, going into the braking system to remove a servo necessitates bleeding the system which is a bit of a pain
>>>> Not sure, Alan, why you would want to remove the rocker cover.
>>>> I do have a chain hoist, so I might use this to lift the front of the engine. Alas, no pit. American are very paranoid about pits, though I think they're still pretty popular in the UK.
>>>> Gotta get another car on the road before I start the job - then I'll let you know how I get on.
>>>> 
>>>> Dermot Harvey
>>>> 
>>>> On Oct 24, 2013, at 6:17 AM, Juliet Keiler wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hi Dermot,
>>>>> 
>>>>> If you have no lift then pulling the transmission from beneath is quite straightforward and the procedure is as follows.
>>>>> 
>>>>> In the engine bay remove the top hose, heater hoses, front stabiliser bar, carb linkage between carb & bulkhead. Loosen the engine mount nuts to the end of the thread but do NOT remove.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Opinion varies but I also remove the rocker cover and fan blades.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Beneath the car disconnect propshaft, gear lever linkage and gearbox mounting cross-bar & spring mount, reverse switch wires and speedo cable.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Again opinion varies but I also remove the exhaust.
>>>>> 
>>>>> You then jack under the front of the engine thus raising it and lowering the back, I usually get it to a position where the sump is ‘resting’ in the front x-member.
>>>>> 
>>>>> You then split the bell housing from the engine (in practice it may be easier to remove most of the bolts prior to tipping it back) and once separated spin the gearbox until the starter motor ‘bulge’ in the bell-housing (which prevents it being pulled straight back) is at the top in the tunnel, once up there you’ll find it has enough room to pull back and away.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Depending on your physical strength the box is either very heavy or quite light. I did my 1964 2000 car last Sunday and it took me about 4 hours from start to finish though I had already drained the water previously. The real key is to get the car high enough both front and back so you have room to work, if you have a pit the whole job is considerably easier.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Good luck and any questions please let me know and I’ll try and help.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Best Regards
>>>>> 
>>>>> Alan Francis (partviking)
>>>>> 
>>>>> P.S. Not sure if the second servo will cause a problem as I only have the one but there should be enough room to tip back even with two
>>>>> 
>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>> From: Dermot Harvey <roverman2 at verizon.net>
>>>>> To: Rovernet at rovernet.org
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, 24 October 2013, 1:05
>>>>> Subject: [Rovernet] 2000 Clutch
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hi Rovernetters,
>>>>> 
>>>>> Alas, my 'New' 1971 2000 has a slipping clutch!
>>>>> It's been longer than I like to remember since I did a clutch on a 2000. I'm trying to remember whether to pull the engine and trans as a unit, or whether to pull the trans only. No lift where I am now, so it won't be easy.
>>>>> Looks as though the brake servos might get in the way if I pull both engine and trans. Not sure about the exhaust manifold either - I don't really want to pull that.
>>>>> Anyone have any ideas?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>> 
>>>>> Dermot Harvey
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