[Rovernet] Dash wood

Ben Saunders bsaunders at firstva.com
Wed Sep 18 13:03:59 EDT 2013


Barry,
What great timing, I have a spare number / reverse light for my P4 and you
are welcome to it. When the springs get here I will have your return address
and I can see what the postage will be and let you know. I just checked it
out and everything is working. It will need a new rubber gasket and the
number lenses are not in the best shape but I feel that you can make them
from flexible sheet plastic. Try some large Pillsbury cinnamon rolls and use
the side of the cup the icing comes in. I did that for the gages where the
light shines through. The chrome is in fair shape and it has the studs out
the back.
B en

-----Original Message-----
From: Rovernet [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.org] On Behalf Of Barry
Lafbery
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 11:26 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Dash wood

Hi Ben,
            I will see what I can do in the next few days.

I have already wired flashing turn signals into my car. I am using the front
side lights, i changed the bulb holder to take an 1157 yellow bulb and used
the reverse light part of the rear lights with a yellow bulb. 
This is all wired separate with it's own turn switch and is in no way
connected to the Trafficator wiring.  The only thing is I no longer have
reverse lights, I am looking for a P4 number plate light as that has the
number plate light and reverse light all in one. but P4s are very thin on
the ground up here.

According to UPS tracking the springs are in MD, so they should be on time
and be with you tomorrow.

Cheers
Barry




On 13-09-18 06:49 AM, Ben Saunders wrote:
> Hi Barry,
> It does seem that Rover could not make up their mind on the dash 
> design. I have a favor to ask if you can do it for me in that I need 
> an accurate measurement from the rear of the frame (the back side of 
> where the body
> mounts) to the center of the rear cross member tube. And please if you 
> can do this check both sides. When I removed the rear springs things 
> started to move around and there is a difference between the left and 
> right. The main thing I am concerned with is getting the distance back as
correct as I can.
> The elevation I am not too concerned with now but that too is subject 
> to change. There is a nice LED product you may be interested in called 
> Maxxima 
> http://www.maxxima.com/products/product_detail/551/34-Amber-Mini-Clear
> ance-A uxiliary-Turn-Light.html#.UjmqSxBCozQ you might want to check 
> out. I used these for the mark / turn lights on the P3 since they fit 
> the housing perfectly after taking out the spring contact that is in 
> it originally and removing the rubber surround that comes on the LED. 
> You do not have to damage the light fixture to do this but do be 
> careful in that these are from Asia and the white wire is negative and 
> the red and black are positive. The lights have a low and high setting 
> which will allow you to use them for directional signals as well as 
> marking. They also come in red which I plan to use for the rear lights 
> as well since I have a set of original clear lenses to go on the car 
> after I make a rear end to put them on. I plan to use the lower 
> portion of the rear fixtures for amber turn signals. I have some clear 
> / red D-lights for the license plate and for back up lights. I had 
> some of the Lucas motorcycle lights on it for turn signals but they 
> looked bad and I am not sorry to see them go. I also rigged a dual 
> solid state flasher system, one for each side so that I can have the 
> trafficators go up and have their lights flash but not have the arms 
> flapping like a lame duck. There is an override switch on that part of 
> the system to spare the trafficators from over use.
>
> Regards,
> Ben
>


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