[Rovernet] Dash wood

Barry Lafbery lafbery at shaw.ca
Wed Sep 18 13:09:32 EDT 2013


Thanks Ben, that's great. let know the postage.

Barry

On 13-09-18 10:03 AM, Ben Saunders wrote:
> Barry,
> What great timing, I have a spare number / reverse light for my P4 and you
> are welcome to it. When the springs get here I will have your return address
> and I can see what the postage will be and let you know. I just checked it
> out and everything is working. It will need a new rubber gasket and the
> number lenses are not in the best shape but I feel that you can make them
> from flexible sheet plastic. Try some large Pillsbury cinnamon rolls and use
> the side of the cup the icing comes in. I did that for the gages where the
> light shines through. The chrome is in fair shape and it has the studs out
> the back.
> B en
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rovernet [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.org] On Behalf Of Barry
> Lafbery
> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 11:26 AM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Dash wood
>
> Hi Ben,
>              I will see what I can do in the next few days.
>
> I have already wired flashing turn signals into my car. I am using the front
> side lights, i changed the bulb holder to take an 1157 yellow bulb and used
> the reverse light part of the rear lights with a yellow bulb.
> This is all wired separate with it's own turn switch and is in no way
> connected to the Trafficator wiring.  The only thing is I no longer have
> reverse lights, I am looking for a P4 number plate light as that has the
> number plate light and reverse light all in one. but P4s are very thin on
> the ground up here.
>
> According to UPS tracking the springs are in MD, so they should be on time
> and be with you tomorrow.
>
> Cheers
> Barry
>
>
>
>
> On 13-09-18 06:49 AM, Ben Saunders wrote:
>> Hi Barry,
>> It does seem that Rover could not make up their mind on the dash
>> design. I have a favor to ask if you can do it for me in that I need
>> an accurate measurement from the rear of the frame (the back side of
>> where the body
>> mounts) to the center of the rear cross member tube. And please if you
>> can do this check both sides. When I removed the rear springs things
>> started to move around and there is a difference between the left and
>> right. The main thing I am concerned with is getting the distance back as
> correct as I can.
>> The elevation I am not too concerned with now but that too is subject
>> to change. There is a nice LED product you may be interested in called
>> Maxxima
>> http://www.maxxima.com/products/product_detail/551/34-Amber-Mini-Clear
>> ance-A uxiliary-Turn-Light.html#.UjmqSxBCozQ you might want to check
>> out. I used these for the mark / turn lights on the P3 since they fit
>> the housing perfectly after taking out the spring contact that is in
>> it originally and removing the rubber surround that comes on the LED.
>> You do not have to damage the light fixture to do this but do be
>> careful in that these are from Asia and the white wire is negative and
>> the red and black are positive. The lights have a low and high setting
>> which will allow you to use them for directional signals as well as
>> marking. They also come in red which I plan to use for the rear lights
>> as well since I have a set of original clear lenses to go on the car
>> after I make a rear end to put them on. I plan to use the lower
>> portion of the rear fixtures for amber turn signals. I have some clear
>> / red D-lights for the license plate and for back up lights. I had
>> some of the Lucas motorcycle lights on it for turn signals but they
>> looked bad and I am not sorry to see them go. I also rigged a dual
>> solid state flasher system, one for each side so that I can have the
>> trafficators go up and have their lights flash but not have the arms
>> flapping like a lame duck. There is an override switch on that part of
>> the system to spare the trafficators from over use.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Ben
>>
>
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