[Rovernet] play in 3500s differential

Wed Apr 27 12:48:05 EDT 2016

Ah, that is a crucial difference. In my case, the loose bolt knocked a piece of the dif case clean off and I guess that created enough clearance so the car kept driving. It was a 1966 diff, as I recall they stiffened the case a bit when the V8 arrived so maybe not so easy to knock a piece out of your case.

Yours
Vern
> On Apr 27, 2016, at 8:29 AM, Barry Lafbery via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org> wrote:
> 
> 
> I seem to remember it was clunk as i pulled away, when it finally broke the case it stopped the car I was only a few blocks from home and had a hell of a job getting it home as it did not want to move. it had split the casing about 6 inches long.
> 
> Barry 
> 
>> 
>> I’ve had Barry’s experience except in a 4cyl car. I wasn’t driving it, but the person who was said she did vaguely hear a “tick, tick, tick” from the back. The amazing thing was she probably drove the car 500 miles before I found the hole. The piece that had come out was fairly high, so some oil was retained and I guess it was just enough.
>> 
>> Yours
>> Vern
>> 
>>> On Apr 27, 2016, at 7:25 AM, peter king via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Thank you, Barry. It sounds like you would have heard a repeated sound or grinding as the bolt was coming in contact with the casing. Was that the case, or did it just clunk when you put it in gear?
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Apr 26, 2016, at 6:35 PM, Barry Lafbery via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> if it’s any help, the clunk i had in my last 3500s turned out to be a loose crown wheel i did not catch it in time and it broke the casing.
>>>> including mine i have heard of 3 3500s with the crown wheel coming loose. One bolt only has to undo 1/2 a turn and they hit the casing if you keep driving it breaks the casing. It’s really worth checking. When i repaired it i drilled the bolt heads wired the bolts and also used loktite on the threads.
>>>> 
>>>> Barry
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Peter, since I just completed the exact job you're undertaking, I can 2nd Vern's response that the 'play' you have is acceptable.  I had a really bad 'clunk' but it was only at slow speeds, usually when the car was coming to a stop.  Turned out it indeed was a bad u-joint.   The bad news; the other 'clunk' from engaging the transmission never went away.   I remember we've had this conversation several times on Rovernet, and apparently that clunk is almost a badge of honor with that atrocious BW35.  I've never been able to eliminate it, even after having the tranny completely rebuilt and then replacing all of the u-joints along the entire drive line.
>>>>> Best wishes,   Lance
>>>>> 
>>>>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
>>>>> Outside of a dog, a person's best friend is a book.  Inside of a dog it's too dark to read.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 21:31:43 -0400
>>>>>> To: rovernet at rovernet.org
>>>>>> Subject: [Rovernet] play in 3500s differential
>>>>>> From: rovernet at rovernet.org
>>>>>> CC: peter at king-co.com
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I’m in the middle of replacing half shaft u-joints in the 3500s, and replacing seals and gaiter on the Dedion tube, and I noticed that there is a lot of free play in the differential when I rotate the road wheel back and forth. A “blank space” before engaging. How much play is normal, and what’s the best way to measure this? I made a set of marks on the outer edge of the brake disc, and measured 3/4” of “blank space” when I move the wheel back and forth. I have no idea if that’s a meaningful measurement, but it’s a place to start the conversation.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Any thoughts on this?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> thanks,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Peter
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
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