[Rovernet] Brake Failure Switch redux

Peter King peter at king-co.com
Sun Feb 21 10:55:37 EST 2016


Thanks for the product info, Lance, and thanks to Fletcher and Tom for earlier info on this!

I’m struggling with a buggered brake line fitting—found the nut was previously badly rounded at the back line, and it looks like I’m going to have to cut that line to remove the switch. Too bad, since that line looks like it’s going to be a chore to remove. I wonder if it can be re-flared in position? Seems possible… 

pk






  
> On Feb 20, 2016, at 3:44 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org> wrote:
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> As usual, I can't thank everyone on the Rovernet enough for all of their help.  At times it is truly the only way I keep the beast going.
> This car continues to remind me, endlessly, that the more I know about it, the more I know what I don't know!!!!!!
> For anyone's edification about this little bugger for the dual line system, the plastic, electrical, switch rarely if ever is the problem (unless it is actually broken off or cracked).   It is actually designed to leak (Peter, you we're right on).  When you have no leaking at any of the tubing orifices, you can pull the plug off the top of the electrical switch and watch fluid slowly drip right out the end.   Diagnostically this means that the internal 0-rings (who knew they were hiding in there!!!???) have failed.    The Moss video clearly shows the "pressure differential piston" which is which needs to be fit with new o-rings.
> Rebuilding the unit is extremely simple (although you might be cursing a bit trying to get all of the tubing unscrewed as noted previously).  Once you've got it on your workbench, unscrew the large bolt on the end.  With a few sharp blows on the edge of the opening against a piece of wood, the piston will come out.  
> The rebuild kit is Lockheed: "Kit, Brake Equalizer Valve",  LK10833  (should be in the Moss catalogue).  This 'massive' kit contains a new crush washer and 2 sets of o-rings (depending on your particular piston) about 4-5MM in diameter-------$13.00 later (ha, you could probably source the two o-rings and the crush washer at NAPA for about $1.50), you're back in business.   Just pry the old o-rings off with a dental pick, grease up the new ones with some brake fluid and push (don't roll) them onto the piston.    Once you put the piston back in, make sure it seats completely by threading the bolt all the way in and tightening; then the 'valley' on the piston will be lined up with the hole where the electrical switch screws in.
> The biggest hassle of all of this of course is that you have to bleed the brake system.  Nothing I love more that trying to get a spanner and tube up onto the bleed screw on the differential.
> Thanks again for everyone's help and support.
> Lance
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> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
> Outside of a dog, a person's best friend is a book.  Inside of a dog it's too dark to read.
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