[Rovernet] Rovernet Digest, Vol 105, Issue 5

Mon Apr 25 12:31:46 EDT 2022

1 other distant possibility: that the vacuum hose from the engine to the
servo[s?] was recently replaced with a non-vacuum-rated hose and that hose
is collapsing rather than maintaining its rigidity as a proper hose would
have. One wonders if the shop did a driving test after their work was done.
In any good shop that would be mandatory, IMPO. It seems abundantly clear
that the end result of the work done by your shop [if I read your comments
accurately] falls far short of a realistically-acceptable level of safety
or success. If this proves true one might well steer clear of said shop.
Mind you, there may be mitigating circumstances of which the reader may be
unaware.

1 other thought: if the rotors are grooved [hence not turned] and new pads
were fitted then the pads would only be hitting the high points and braking
effect would be reduced.

Charles Kellogg
Director of Restorations
Dare Britannia, Ltd.
1043 Kaiser Rd. SW, Unit C
Olympia, WA  98512, USA
http://www.darebritannia.com/

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*Thank you for your enquiry for our parts and services. We offer the
highest-quality spare parts for the vintage Land -Rover. Our staff is
minuscule while the demand for rare and “unobtainable” parts for early
Land-Rovers is relentless. While your concern is important to us, our
ability to respond to each and every enquiry may be limited and stocks of
many items are critically low.. We are primarily a restoration-based
enterprise but when we have a surplus of a given  item, we are able to
offer excess stocks to our dedicated clients. If your need is urgent, we
encourage you to contact us by phone, in person. Leaving a message is
rarely effective, so we recommend direct contact. With many buildings full
of parts, it is not always easy to locate obscure items, and the process is
often time consuming. We hope you understand. Please
provide complete details of your exact model including year, wheelbase,
which side drive, engine, Country of origin, etc. When giving part numbers,
please also state the catalogue number (typically found on the front
cover).  We appreciate your understanding and will do all we can to help.*

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On Mon, Apr 25, 2022 at 9:01 AM <rovernet-request at rovernet.org> wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: 2000TC Bad Brakes (Roger Matheson)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2022 12:17:01 +1000
> From: Roger Matheson <roger.matheson at bigpond.com>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet] 2000TC Bad Brakes
> Message-ID: <61BAC8F21A549833 at smtp.telstra.com> (added by
>         postmaster at smtp.telstra.com)
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> I?ve had 2000TC?s for 36 years and It would seem that the boosters are not
> working at all and possibly also that faulty or incorrectly installed parts
> are restricting fluid flow. A simple diagnostic is to compare braking with
> the engine running and not and to do this you will need a safe area of flat
> ground when you can roll the car with the engine off. If the boosters are
> faulty then there will be no difference in braking between engine on and
> off. With the car stopped, press the brake pedal and start the engine. If
> the boosters are working (even a little) you should feel the brake pedal
> depress. Check that the vacuum pipe to the boosters is not blocked. With
> engine off remove the pipe from the boosters and start the engine (which it
> wont like) but will clearly indicate suction. With an assistant, locate
> where the fluid pipe from the master connects to the booster. Press the
> brake pedal and keep pressed while gradually loosening the connection. With
> the master working correctly, fluid will begin to escape from the
> connection around the threads and the pedal will start to sink. As son as
> the pedal moves and or the assistant sees fluid escaping have the assistant
> re tighten the connection before taking the foot off the pedal. These
> diagnostics will eliminate problems wit the master and the vacuum and
> confirm booster problems. Then take up Pierre?s offer of a proper re build.
> Hope this helps
> Cheers from Roger in Oz
>
> From: pierre janusz via Rovernet
> Sent: Sunday, 24 April 2022 7:11 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.org
> Cc: pierre janusz
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet] 2000TC Bad Brakes
>
>
>
> Dear Robert,
>
> If you want OEM boosters or repair kits I have them both avaialble.
>
>
> Pierre?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Ruggeri via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org>
> CC: Robert Ruggeri <robert.ruggeri.esq at outlook.com>
> Sent: Sat, 23 Apr 2022 23:45
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet] 2000TC Bad Brakes
> Hi All:
> ?
> Brakes were overhauled by shop recently, and both master vac units were
> replaced. ?They also said they rebuilt the master cylinder boosters.
> ?
> Brake pedal is very, very hard.? Car will stop, with difficulty, but only
> if you really lean on that last ? inch of travel in the pedal.? The car
> doesn?t feel as though it even has power assisted brakes.
> ?
> Mechanic acknowledges that (although he thinks it?s safe enough since the
> car will eventually stop).? He says the problem was getting parts for the
> vac and boosters.? He claims he got aftermarket from the UK since OEM
> wasn?t available, etc., etc. ?Something about OEM rebuild kits not being
> available?? Whatever.? ?
> ?
> Anybody have any insight into this?? It?s a 1971 2000TC.? I can?t believe
> any other P6 has brakes like this.? If the proper parts are available I
> will follow up.
> ?
> Thanks.
> ?
> Bob
> ???
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> End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 105, Issue 5
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