<div dir="ltr">One wonders if the hot side caliper might be causing the differential spider gears to bind and release intermittently once the pads become hot, possibly because the pads are intermittently sticking and releasing.....or that a similar intermittent situation is being brought to bear somewhere in the driveline itself: a failing u joint or two, their wear working against one another setting up perhaps an harmonic oscillation or vibration.....<div><br></div><div>It's a bit of a long shot.<br><div><br></div><div><br><div>Charles Kellogg,</div><div>Director of Restorations</div><div>Dare Britannia, Ltd.</div><div>Land-Rover specialists</div><div>Olympia, WA</div></div></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br clear="all"><div><div class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr">Charles Kellogg<div>Director of Restorations<br><div>Dare Britannia, Ltd.</div><div>Olympia, WA 98512, USA</div><div><a href="http://www.darebritannia.com/" target="_blank">http://www.darebritannia.com/</a></div><div><br></div><div>Voice 360-866-2254</div><div>Fax 360-866-6970</div></div><div>Cell 360-789-5070</div><div><br></div><div><img src="http://darebritanniarestorations.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/dare-britannia-logo.jpg?w=625" alt="New Logo" width="420" height="235"><br></div>
</div></div></div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 11:37 PM, <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:rovernet-request@rovernet.org" target="_blank">rovernet-request@rovernet.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to<br>
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Today's Topics:<br>
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1. Re: Diagnostic help please [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED] (Coombs, Michael MR)<br>
2. Re: Diagnostic help please [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED] (Roger Matheson)<br>
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----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 12:29:42 +1100<br>
From: "Coombs, Michael MR" <<a href="mailto:michael.coombs@defence.gov.au">michael.coombs@defence.gov.au</a>><br>
To: <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<<a href="mailto:C48047758B5D7547946CEB02B87C127A0D391D6E@vbsrxm01.drn.mil.au">C48047758B5D7547946CEB02B87C127A0D391D6E@vbsrxm01.drn.mil.au</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
UNCLASSIFIED<br>
<br>
<br>
Before doing any of that I would check the front mountings for the diff<br>
torque tube. Sounds just like a loose (or no) bolt, when you drive there<br>
is no noise because the tube and mount are held together, when you lift<br>
off the tube rises and bangs the body work. Check both the bolt itself<br>
and the two mount bolts plus the cross member bushes at the sides.<br>
<br>
Michael<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
----------------<br>
Mr Michael Coombs<br>
------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
----------------<br>
<br>
<br>
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Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Diagnostic help please (LANCE LA CERTE PSY D)<br>
2. Re: Diagnostic help please (James Pile)<br>
3. Re: Diagnostic help please (<a href="mailto:magnet@ican.net">magnet@ican.net</a>)<br>
4. Re: Diagnostic help please (Fritz Rauschenberg)<br>
5. Re: Diagnostic help please (Vern Klukas)<br>
6. Re: Diagnostic help please (Ben Saunders)<br>
7. Re: Diagnostic help please (Andrew Holland)<br>
8. Re: Diagnostic help please (Scruggs Family)<br>
<br>
<br>
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 11:36:22 -0700<br>
From: LANCE LA CERTE PSY D <<a href="mailto:lacpsyd6@msn.com">lacpsyd6@msn.com</a>><br>
To: Rovernet <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID: <BLU170-W28E47A2AAC003B0F8034F783240@phx.gbl><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br>
<br>
1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear of<br>
the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as you<br>
take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and with<br>
the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate the<br>
rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to be<br>
'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging (right<br>
disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if I'm<br>
going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
<br>
Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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Message: 2<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 14:03:08 -0500<br>
From: James Pile <<a href="mailto:jpile1@verizon.net">jpile1@verizon.net</a>><br>
To: LANCE LA CERTE PSY D <<a href="mailto:lacpsyd6@msn.com">lacpsyd6@msn.com</a>>, Rovernet<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:E07A4790-2D57-4BBE-A993-F50A9C8CE97D@verizon.net">E07A4790-2D57-4BBE-A993-F50A9C8CE97D@verizon.net</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii<br>
<br>
An often-heard rear thump can come from a universal joint that's on it's<br>
way out.With the car on a lift, "wiggle" (technical term) the tires to<br>
discover any play, rather than sticking, in any of the ball joints.<br>
That's the only rear thump I've experienced in the past 40+ years of<br>
Rovering. But that's the obvious analysis. Perhaps there are other<br>
owners that will give you alternative things to check, but your brief<br>
description of the problem does fit the suspect ball joint. The rear<br>
caliper is a whole different matter.<br>
<br>
Good luck!<br>
<br>
Jim Pile<br>
<br>
On Feb 10, 2015, at 1:36 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet wrote:<br>
<br>
> 1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
> Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
> Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear<br>
of the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as<br>
you take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and<br>
with the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate<br>
the rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to<br>
be 'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging<br>
(right disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
> I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if<br>
I'm going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
<br>
><br>
> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
> It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was<br>
> scrubbed...<br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 3<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 14:17:47 -0500<br>
From: "<a href="mailto:magnet@ican.net">magnet@ican.net</a>" <<a href="mailto:magnet@ican.net">magnet@ican.net</a>><br>
To: Rovernet <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:54DA595B.8040708@ican.net">54DA595B.8040708@ican.net</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed<br>
<br>
I second Jim's comment about a faulty half-shaft universal joint. Best<br>
way to check is to jack the rear of the car up and support it under the<br>
rear end of the trailing arms (beneath the shock absorber mounts). That<br>
way the half shafts will be in approximately the same position as when<br>
the car is on its wheels. Put the hand brake on and try to rotate the<br>
back wheels. If all is well, there should be no play at all. If you<br>
can feel some lost motion, get under and look to see if it's the inboard<br>
or outboard universal that's causing the problem.<br>
<br>
The issue with the rear brake could be an inoperative self-adjuster (a<br>
not uncommon problem). As Jim says, that's a story in itself, and<br>
regrettably, it will probably mean lowering the final drive to get the<br>
caliper off.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
-- Bill Daddis<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 10-Feb-15 2:03 PM, James Pile via Rovernet wrote:<br>
> An often-heard rear thump can come from a universal joint that's on<br>
it's way out.With the car on a lift, "wiggle" (technical term) the tires<br>
to discover any play, rather than sticking, in any of the ball joints.<br>
That's the only rear thump I've experienced in the past 40+ years of<br>
Rovering. But that's the obvious analysis. Perhaps there are other<br>
owners that will give you alternative things to check, but your brief<br>
description of the problem does fit the suspect ball joint. The rear<br>
caliper is a whole different matter.<br>
><br>
> Good luck!<br>
><br>
> Jim Pile<br>
><br>
> On Feb 10, 2015, at 1:36 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet wrote:<br>
><br>
>> 1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
>> Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
>> Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear<br>
of the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as<br>
you take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and<br>
with the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate<br>
the rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to<br>
be 'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging<br>
(right disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
>> I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if<br>
I'm going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
>><br>
>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
>> It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was<br>
>> scrubbed...<br>
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>> 20150210/2748705c/attachment.html><br>
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><br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 4<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 14:59:01 -0500 (GMT-05:00)<br>
From: Fritz Rauschenberg <<a href="mailto:wfritz@mindspring.com">wfritz@mindspring.com</a>><br>
To: James Pile <<a href="mailto:jpile1@verizon.net">jpile1@verizon.net</a>>, Rovernet <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>>,<br>
LANCE LA CERTE PSY D <<a href="mailto:lacpsyd6@msn.com">lacpsyd6@msn.com</a>>, Rovernet<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<br>
<<a href="mailto:28751992.1423598345891.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net">28751992.1423598345891.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8<br>
<br>
I would vote for the rear end on it's way out. I replaced mine twice<br>
over the years-the fist time I thought it was the clutch until I got the<br>
car in the air. You also probably have rear caliper problems. So it is a<br>
great time to drop the rear end out of the car and do it all.<br>
<br>
Fritz Rauschenberg<br>
Atlanta<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
>From: James Pile via Rovernet <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
>Sent: Feb 10, 2015 2:03 PM<br>
>To: LANCE LA CERTE PSY D <<a href="mailto:lacpsyd6@msn.com">lacpsyd6@msn.com</a>>, Rovernet<br>
><<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
>Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
><br>
>An often-heard rear thump can come from a universal joint that's on<br>
it's way out.With the car on a lift, "wiggle" (technical term) the tires<br>
to discover any play, rather than sticking, in any of the ball joints.<br>
That's the only rear thump I've experienced in the past 40+ years of<br>
Rovering. But that's the obvious analysis. Perhaps there are other<br>
owners that will give you alternative things to check, but your brief<br>
description of the problem does fit the suspect ball joint. The rear<br>
caliper is a whole different matter.<br>
><br>
> Good luck!<br>
><br>
> Jim Pile<br>
><br>
>On Feb 10, 2015, at 1:36 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet wrote:<br>
><br>
>> 1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
>> Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
>> Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear<br>
of the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as<br>
you take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and<br>
with the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate<br>
the rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to<br>
be 'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging<br>
(right disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
>> I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if<br>
I'm going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
<br>
>><br>
>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
>> It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was<br>
>> scrubbed...<br>
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><br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 5<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 12:15:47 -0800<br>
From: Vern Klukas <<a href="mailto:vern@inkspotco.com">vern@inkspotco.com</a>><br>
To: LANCE LA CERTE PSY D <<a href="mailto:lacpsyd6@msn.com">lacpsyd6@msn.com</a>>, Rovernet<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:86247D6E-4F8F-4E7B-ADC6-C79F3DF1EDC1@inkspotco.com">86247D6E-4F8F-4E7B-ADC6-C79F3DF1EDC1@inkspotco.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii<br>
<br>
Hi Lance<br>
<br>
A bit more detail on the thumps please. Is it all the time, or just when<br>
you get on and off the gas or brake, for a start?<br>
<br>
Yours<br>
Vern<br>
<br>
> On Feb 10, 2015, at 10:36 AM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>> wrote:<br>
><br>
> 1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
> Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
> Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear<br>
of the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as<br>
you take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and<br>
with the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate<br>
the rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to<br>
be 'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging<br>
(right disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
> I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if<br>
I'm going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
<br>
><br>
> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
> It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was<br>
> scrubbed...<br>
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<br>
Inkspot Type & Design <a href="tel:250%20864%205619" value="+12508645619">250 864 5619</a> <a href="mailto:in@inkspotco.com">in@inkspotco.com</a><br>
<br>
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<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 6<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 18:03:28 -0500<br>
From: Ben Saunders <<a href="mailto:bsaunders@firstva.com">bsaunders@firstva.com</a>><br>
To: LANCE LA CERTE PSY D <<a href="mailto:lacpsyd6@msn.com">lacpsyd6@msn.com</a>>, Rovernet<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:54DA8E40.3030102@firstva.com">54DA8E40.3030102@firstva.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed<br>
<br>
Hi Lance,<br>
Try loosening the caliper that is tight and see if that helps but also<br>
check the rear axle bolts to make sure they are tight.<br>
Ben<br>
On 02/10/2015 01:36 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet wrote:<br>
> 1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
> Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
> Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear<br>
of the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as<br>
you take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and<br>
with the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate<br>
the rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to<br>
be 'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging<br>
(right disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
> I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if<br>
I'm going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
><br>
> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
> It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
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<br>
Message: 7<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 23:31:44 +0000<br>
From: Andrew Holland <<a href="mailto:Andrew_Holland@amp.com.au">Andrew_Holland@amp.com.au</a>><br>
To: "<a href="mailto:magnet@ican.net">magnet@ican.net</a>" <<a href="mailto:magnet@ican.net">magnet@ican.net</a>>, Rovernet<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<br>
<91299A46EA25D5498A4B2C8BD8FA9B44CCF5D9A6@COSAMPMBXSYD05.ampcos.local><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Hi from Australia,<br>
<br>
It's also worth checking the read Bolt in the Gearbox, as I had a<br>
similar noise in my 2000TC.<br>
<br>
You will need to remove the Drive Shaft (just remove 4 bolts at each<br>
end) , then check the large bolt in the rear of the Gearbox where the<br>
Drive Shaft connects.<br>
<br>
Hope this helps<br>
Andrew Holland!<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Rovernet [mailto:<a href="mailto:rovernet-bounces@rovernet.org">rovernet-bounces@rovernet.org</a>] On Behalf Of<br>
magnet--- via Rovernet<br>
Sent: Wednesday, 11 February 2015 6:18 AM<br>
To: Rovernet<br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
<br>
I second Jim's comment about a faulty half-shaft universal joint. Best<br>
way to check is to jack the rear of the car up and support it under the<br>
rear end of the trailing arms (beneath the shock absorber mounts). That<br>
way the half shafts will be in approximately the same position as when<br>
the car is on its wheels. Put the hand brake on and try to rotate the<br>
back wheels. If all is well, there should be no play at all. If you<br>
can feel some lost motion, get under and look to see if it's the inboard<br>
or outboard universal that's causing the problem.<br>
<br>
The issue with the rear brake could be an inoperative self-adjuster (a<br>
not uncommon problem). As Jim says, that's a story in itself, and<br>
regrettably, it will probably mean lowering the final drive to get the<br>
caliper off.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
-- Bill Daddis<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 10-Feb-15 2:03 PM, James Pile via Rovernet wrote:<br>
> An often-heard rear thump can come from a universal joint that's on<br>
it's way out.With the car on a lift, "wiggle" (technical term) the tires<br>
to discover any play, rather than sticking, in any of the ball joints.<br>
That's the only rear thump I've experienced in the past 40+ years of<br>
Rovering. But that's the obvious analysis. Perhaps there are other<br>
owners that will give you alternative things to check, but your brief<br>
description of the problem does fit the suspect ball joint. The rear<br>
caliper is a whole different matter.<br>
><br>
> Good luck!<br>
><br>
> Jim Pile<br>
><br>
> On Feb 10, 2015, at 1:36 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet wrote:<br>
><br>
>> 1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
>> Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
>> Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear<br>
of the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as<br>
you take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and<br>
with the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate<br>
the rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to<br>
be 'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging<br>
(right disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
>> I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if<br>
I'm going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
>><br>
>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
>> It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
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Message: 8<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 19:44:45 -0500<br>
From: "Scruggs Family" <<a href="mailto:gjkzscruggs@verizon.net">gjkzscruggs@verizon.net</a>><br>
To: "'Rovernet'" <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID: <017001d04593$ef18bfb0$cd4a3f10$@net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII<br>
<br>
In my 44 years of P6 ownership I've had three final drive failures and<br>
they were all accompanied by an increasingly louder whining sound. I've<br>
never had one go 'thump.' When I've had a thump it has been a failed<br>
half-shaft U-joint... several of those. For my experience when you get<br>
an OEM replacement U-joint you get one that strangely doesn't have a<br>
zerk fitting and cannot be lubricated... so you are left with whatever<br>
lubricant that may or may not have been injected at their point of<br>
origin. When replacing half shaft U-joints I make a point of getting<br>
aftermarket units... the same, I have been told, that early IRS<br>
Corvettes use... that do have zerk fittings as they will last much<br>
longer with occasional lubrication.<br>
<br>
I am seriously considering replacing the U-joints in my half shafts with<br>
CV joints as they do not have near the drag of a U-joint. Hand push a<br>
P-6 and then any other 3,000lb car... I contend the extra 'weight' of<br>
the P-6 is due to U-joint drag/resistance. May be costly to make the<br>
change but it will amount to a horsepower increase with longer life.<br>
And while you're in there have an aluminum /aluminium driveshaft made as<br>
you will appreciate the weight reduction of the rotating mass.<br>
<br>
When you pull the handbrake it ratchets the rear caliper pistons into<br>
the pads to take up any slack. If the cable or the ratcheting mechanism<br>
is out of adjustment then the pads on that side will eventually not<br>
touch the rotor before the other side does. If your calipers are not<br>
leaking then they are most likely victim of poor adjustment/maintenance<br>
which can be addressed without dropping the differential. Yes, it's<br>
tight up in there but for my experience dropping the differential is one<br>
of the last things you want to do unless you have a lift and three<br>
husky, amiable friends. Also check the top edge of the differential<br>
mount for stress cracks while you're under there and weld or replace as<br>
you choose. And tighten the panhard rod mounting hardware tighter than<br>
factory specs so it won't shudder under cornering loads.<br>
<br>
Gross Scruggs<br>
Annapolis MD<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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Message: 2<br>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 18:37:41 +1100<br>
From: "Roger Matheson" <<a href="mailto:roger.matheson@bigpond.com">roger.matheson@bigpond.com</a>><br>
To: "Coombs, Michael MR" <<a href="mailto:michael.coombs@defence.gov.au">michael.coombs@defence.gov.au</a>>,<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]<br>
Message-ID: <EF88D097E5684C309EF65F18EA8BC34B@UserPC><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";<br>
reply-type=original<br>
<br>
Yes, I agree with Michael that checking the front mountings of the diff is<br>
step 1. My experience with worn diffs is also whine not thump. If the left<br>
calliper is not engaging then checking the universals may be difficult that<br>
side because the handbrake wont hold the disk still and rocking the tyre<br>
backwards and forwards to test for free play may be misleading . So you<br>
might have to jam the tyre and put a screwdriver through the inboard<br>
universal to detect any free play. In my experience there is very little<br>
that can be done with the calliper in place. However get someone to operate<br>
the handbrake and watch its operation to make sure that the operating levers<br>
go through their full motion. With the handbrake on you should not be able<br>
to turn the tyre by hand. If you can then the self adjusting mechanism is<br>
faulty. Try taking the operating lever off the left calliper and use a<br>
spanner to turn the lever through its full movement. Watch the pad inboard<br>
pad as it closes on the disk, it should push out but not quite return by the<br>
same amount. The clicking noise will at least tell you that the mechanism is<br>
in place even if not working properly. There is a small window of<br>
opportunity for you that is caused by dirt and hardened grease stopping the<br>
piston from progressing properly. If you dare: Take the half shaft, pads and<br>
disk off. This will allow you to rock the calliper on its hinge pin and<br>
remove the cover. Also to inspect the piston cup assembly. (email me if you<br>
want the exploded diagram) It may be partially seized in the body of the<br>
calliper by sticking to its "O" ring seal or stuck on the threads of the<br>
push rod. You MAY be able to unscrew it right out, clean, re grease, replace<br>
the "O" ring and screw back in provided you can stop the push rod from<br>
turning (by jamming it inside the mechanism accessed with the cover off.<br>
When you screw it back in you will need to align its lip so that the inboard<br>
pad will engage and seat correctly. If you are very lucky this will enable<br>
the self adjuster to work correctly. If unlucky you are well on your way to<br>
removing the calliper. On another matter, do you think the right calliper is<br>
faulty because the brake is dragging and hence getting hot. Its no wonder P6<br>
owners find that non expert servicing often neglects (ignores, pretends they<br>
don't exist) the rear callipers.<br>
<br>
Good luck Cheers Roger (<a href="mailto:roger.matheson@bigpond.com">roger.matheson@bigpond.com</a>)<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Coombs, Michael MR via Rovernet<br>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2015 12:29 PM<br>
To: <a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]<br>
<br>
UNCLASSIFIED<br>
<br>
<br>
Before doing any of that I would check the front mountings for the diff<br>
torque tube. Sounds just like a loose (or no) bolt, when you drive there<br>
is no noise because the tube and mount are held together, when you lift<br>
off the tube rises and bangs the body work. Check both the bolt itself<br>
and the two mount bolts plus the cross member bushes at the sides.<br>
<br>
Michael<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
----------------<br>
Mr Michael Coombs<br>
------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
----------------<br>
<br>
<br>
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Sent: Wednesday, 11 February 2015 11:45<br>
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Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 21, Issue 3<br>
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Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Diagnostic help please (LANCE LA CERTE PSY D)<br>
2. Re: Diagnostic help please (James Pile)<br>
3. Re: Diagnostic help please (<a href="mailto:magnet@ican.net">magnet@ican.net</a>)<br>
4. Re: Diagnostic help please (Fritz Rauschenberg)<br>
5. Re: Diagnostic help please (Vern Klukas)<br>
6. Re: Diagnostic help please (Ben Saunders)<br>
7. Re: Diagnostic help please (Andrew Holland)<br>
8. Re: Diagnostic help please (Scruggs Family)<br>
<br>
<br>
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 11:36:22 -0700<br>
From: LANCE LA CERTE PSY D <<a href="mailto:lacpsyd6@msn.com">lacpsyd6@msn.com</a>><br>
To: Rovernet <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID: <BLU170-W28E47A2AAC003B0F8034F783240@phx.gbl><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br>
<br>
1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear of<br>
the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as you<br>
take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and with<br>
the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate the<br>
rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to be<br>
'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging (right<br>
disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if I'm<br>
going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
<br>
Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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Message: 2<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 14:03:08 -0500<br>
From: James Pile <<a href="mailto:jpile1@verizon.net">jpile1@verizon.net</a>><br>
To: LANCE LA CERTE PSY D <<a href="mailto:lacpsyd6@msn.com">lacpsyd6@msn.com</a>>, Rovernet<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:E07A4790-2D57-4BBE-A993-F50A9C8CE97D@verizon.net">E07A4790-2D57-4BBE-A993-F50A9C8CE97D@verizon.net</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii<br>
<br>
An often-heard rear thump can come from a universal joint that's on it's<br>
way out.With the car on a lift, "wiggle" (technical term) the tires to<br>
discover any play, rather than sticking, in any of the ball joints.<br>
That's the only rear thump I've experienced in the past 40+ years of<br>
Rovering. But that's the obvious analysis. Perhaps there are other<br>
owners that will give you alternative things to check, but your brief<br>
description of the problem does fit the suspect ball joint. The rear<br>
caliper is a whole different matter.<br>
<br>
Good luck!<br>
<br>
Jim Pile<br>
<br>
On Feb 10, 2015, at 1:36 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet wrote:<br>
<br>
> 1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
> Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
> Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear<br>
of the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as<br>
you take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and<br>
with the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate<br>
the rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to<br>
be 'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging<br>
(right disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
> I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if<br>
I'm going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
<br>
><br>
> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
> It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 3<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 14:17:47 -0500<br>
From: "<a href="mailto:magnet@ican.net">magnet@ican.net</a>" <<a href="mailto:magnet@ican.net">magnet@ican.net</a>><br>
To: Rovernet <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:54DA595B.8040708@ican.net">54DA595B.8040708@ican.net</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed<br>
<br>
I second Jim's comment about a faulty half-shaft universal joint. Best<br>
way to check is to jack the rear of the car up and support it under the<br>
rear end of the trailing arms (beneath the shock absorber mounts). That<br>
way the half shafts will be in approximately the same position as when<br>
the car is on its wheels. Put the hand brake on and try to rotate the<br>
back wheels. If all is well, there should be no play at all. If you<br>
can feel some lost motion, get under and look to see if it's the inboard<br>
or outboard universal that's causing the problem.<br>
<br>
The issue with the rear brake could be an inoperative self-adjuster (a<br>
not uncommon problem). As Jim says, that's a story in itself, and<br>
regrettably, it will probably mean lowering the final drive to get the<br>
caliper off.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
-- Bill Daddis<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 10-Feb-15 2:03 PM, James Pile via Rovernet wrote:<br>
> An often-heard rear thump can come from a universal joint that's on<br>
it's way out.With the car on a lift, "wiggle" (technical term) the tires<br>
to discover any play, rather than sticking, in any of the ball joints.<br>
That's the only rear thump I've experienced in the past 40+ years of<br>
Rovering. But that's the obvious analysis. Perhaps there are other<br>
owners that will give you alternative things to check, but your brief<br>
description of the problem does fit the suspect ball joint. The rear<br>
caliper is a whole different matter.<br>
><br>
> Good luck!<br>
><br>
> Jim Pile<br>
><br>
> On Feb 10, 2015, at 1:36 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet wrote:<br>
><br>
>> 1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
>> Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
>> Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear<br>
of the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as<br>
you take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and<br>
with the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate<br>
the rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to<br>
be 'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging<br>
(right disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
>> I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if<br>
I'm going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
>><br>
>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
>> It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was<br>
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Message: 4<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 14:59:01 -0500 (GMT-05:00)<br>
From: Fritz Rauschenberg <<a href="mailto:wfritz@mindspring.com">wfritz@mindspring.com</a>><br>
To: James Pile <<a href="mailto:jpile1@verizon.net">jpile1@verizon.net</a>>, Rovernet <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>>,<br>
LANCE LA CERTE PSY D <<a href="mailto:lacpsyd6@msn.com">lacpsyd6@msn.com</a>>, Rovernet<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<br>
<<a href="mailto:28751992.1423598345891.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net">28751992.1423598345891.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8<br>
<br>
I would vote for the rear end on it's way out. I replaced mine twice<br>
over the years-the fist time I thought it was the clutch until I got the<br>
car in the air. You also probably have rear caliper problems. So it is a<br>
great time to drop the rear end out of the car and do it all.<br>
<br>
Fritz Rauschenberg<br>
Atlanta<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
>From: James Pile via Rovernet <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
>Sent: Feb 10, 2015 2:03 PM<br>
>To: LANCE LA CERTE PSY D <<a href="mailto:lacpsyd6@msn.com">lacpsyd6@msn.com</a>>, Rovernet<br>
><<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
>Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
><br>
>An often-heard rear thump can come from a universal joint that's on<br>
it's way out.With the car on a lift, "wiggle" (technical term) the tires<br>
to discover any play, rather than sticking, in any of the ball joints.<br>
That's the only rear thump I've experienced in the past 40+ years of<br>
Rovering. But that's the obvious analysis. Perhaps there are other<br>
owners that will give you alternative things to check, but your brief<br>
description of the problem does fit the suspect ball joint. The rear<br>
caliper is a whole different matter.<br>
><br>
> Good luck!<br>
><br>
> Jim Pile<br>
><br>
>On Feb 10, 2015, at 1:36 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet wrote:<br>
><br>
>> 1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
>> Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
>> Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear<br>
of the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as<br>
you take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and<br>
with the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate<br>
the rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to<br>
be 'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging<br>
(right disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
>> I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if<br>
I'm going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
<br>
>><br>
>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
>> It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was<br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 5<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 12:15:47 -0800<br>
From: Vern Klukas <<a href="mailto:vern@inkspotco.com">vern@inkspotco.com</a>><br>
To: LANCE LA CERTE PSY D <<a href="mailto:lacpsyd6@msn.com">lacpsyd6@msn.com</a>>, Rovernet<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:86247D6E-4F8F-4E7B-ADC6-C79F3DF1EDC1@inkspotco.com">86247D6E-4F8F-4E7B-ADC6-C79F3DF1EDC1@inkspotco.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii<br>
<br>
Hi Lance<br>
<br>
A bit more detail on the thumps please. Is it all the time, or just when<br>
you get on and off the gas or brake, for a start?<br>
<br>
Yours<br>
Vern<br>
<br>
> On Feb 10, 2015, at 10:36 AM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>> wrote:<br>
><br>
> 1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
> Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
> Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear<br>
of the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as<br>
you take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and<br>
with the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate<br>
the rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to<br>
be 'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging<br>
(right disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
> I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if<br>
I'm going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
<br>
><br>
> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
> It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
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Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 <a href="mailto:in@inkspotco.com">in@inkspotco.com</a><br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 6<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 18:03:28 -0500<br>
From: Ben Saunders <<a href="mailto:bsaunders@firstva.com">bsaunders@firstva.com</a>><br>
To: LANCE LA CERTE PSY D <<a href="mailto:lacpsyd6@msn.com">lacpsyd6@msn.com</a>>, Rovernet<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:54DA8E40.3030102@firstva.com">54DA8E40.3030102@firstva.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed<br>
<br>
Hi Lance,<br>
Try loosening the caliper that is tight and see if that helps but also<br>
check the rear axle bolts to make sure they are tight.<br>
Ben<br>
On 02/10/2015 01:36 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet wrote:<br>
> 1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
> Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
> Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear<br>
of the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as<br>
you take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and<br>
with the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate<br>
the rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to<br>
be 'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging<br>
(right disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
> I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if<br>
I'm going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
><br>
> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
> It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
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> scrubbed...<br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 7<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 23:31:44 +0000<br>
From: Andrew Holland <<a href="mailto:Andrew_Holland@amp.com.au">Andrew_Holland@amp.com.au</a>><br>
To: "<a href="mailto:magnet@ican.net">magnet@ican.net</a>" <<a href="mailto:magnet@ican.net">magnet@ican.net</a>>, Rovernet<br>
<<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<br>
<91299A46EA25D5498A4B2C8BD8FA9B44CCF5D9A6@COSAMPMBXSYD05.ampcos.local><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Hi from Australia,<br>
<br>
It's also worth checking the read Bolt in the Gearbox, as I had a<br>
similar noise in my 2000TC.<br>
<br>
You will need to remove the Drive Shaft (just remove 4 bolts at each<br>
end) , then check the large bolt in the rear of the Gearbox where the<br>
Drive Shaft connects.<br>
<br>
Hope this helps<br>
Andrew Holland!<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Rovernet [mailto:<a href="mailto:rovernet-bounces@rovernet.org">rovernet-bounces@rovernet.org</a>] On Behalf Of<br>
magnet--- via Rovernet<br>
Sent: Wednesday, 11 February 2015 6:18 AM<br>
To: Rovernet<br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
<br>
I second Jim's comment about a faulty half-shaft universal joint. Best<br>
way to check is to jack the rear of the car up and support it under the<br>
rear end of the trailing arms (beneath the shock absorber mounts). That<br>
way the half shafts will be in approximately the same position as when<br>
the car is on its wheels. Put the hand brake on and try to rotate the<br>
back wheels. If all is well, there should be no play at all. If you<br>
can feel some lost motion, get under and look to see if it's the inboard<br>
or outboard universal that's causing the problem.<br>
<br>
The issue with the rear brake could be an inoperative self-adjuster (a<br>
not uncommon problem). As Jim says, that's a story in itself, and<br>
regrettably, it will probably mean lowering the final drive to get the<br>
caliper off.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
-- Bill Daddis<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 10-Feb-15 2:03 PM, James Pile via Rovernet wrote:<br>
> An often-heard rear thump can come from a universal joint that's on<br>
it's way out.With the car on a lift, "wiggle" (technical term) the tires<br>
to discover any play, rather than sticking, in any of the ball joints.<br>
That's the only rear thump I've experienced in the past 40+ years of<br>
Rovering. But that's the obvious analysis. Perhaps there are other<br>
owners that will give you alternative things to check, but your brief<br>
description of the problem does fit the suspect ball joint. The rear<br>
caliper is a whole different matter.<br>
><br>
> Good luck!<br>
><br>
> Jim Pile<br>
><br>
> On Feb 10, 2015, at 1:36 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet wrote:<br>
><br>
>> 1970 3500S P6B NADA<br>
>> Background----Rebuilt engine (2,000 miles total), rebuilt Borg-Warner<br>
35, replaced differential (lower mileage, not rebuilt), rebuilt rear<br>
brake calipers.<br>
>> Car has developed a thumping which appears to be coming from the rear<br>
of the car. At speed it disappears, but instantly returns as soon as<br>
you take your foot off the gas. I've had the car up on the lift and<br>
with the rear end suspended and the transmission in neutral I can rotate<br>
the rear wheels by rotating the propeller shaft, i.e., nothing seems to<br>
be 'sticking'. I also noticed the left rear caliper is not engaging<br>
(right disc is hot to touch after drive, left is cold).<br>
>> I would appreciate any help in how to diagnose this thumping (and if<br>
I'm going to need to drop the differential to address the brake caliper.<br>
>><br>
>> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.<br>
>> It is absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either<br>
charming or tedious.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was<br>
>> scrubbed...<br>
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Message: 8<br>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 19:44:45 -0500<br>
From: "Scruggs Family" <<a href="mailto:gjkzscruggs@verizon.net">gjkzscruggs@verizon.net</a>><br>
To: "'Rovernet'" <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Diagnostic help please<br>
Message-ID: <017001d04593$ef18bfb0$cd4a3f10$@net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII<br>
<br>
In my 44 years of P6 ownership I've had three final drive failures and<br>
they were all accompanied by an increasingly louder whining sound. I've<br>
never had one go 'thump.' When I've had a thump it has been a failed<br>
half-shaft U-joint... several of those. For my experience when you get<br>
an OEM replacement U-joint you get one that strangely doesn't have a<br>
zerk fitting and cannot be lubricated... so you are left with whatever<br>
lubricant that may or may not have been injected at their point of<br>
origin. When replacing half shaft U-joints I make a point of getting<br>
aftermarket units... the same, I have been told, that early IRS<br>
Corvettes use... that do have zerk fittings as they will last much<br>
longer with occasional lubrication.<br>
<br>
I am seriously considering replacing the U-joints in my half shafts with<br>
CV joints as they do not have near the drag of a U-joint. Hand push a<br>
P-6 and then any other 3,000lb car... I contend the extra 'weight' of<br>
the P-6 is due to U-joint drag/resistance. May be costly to make the<br>
change but it will amount to a horsepower increase with longer life.<br>
And while you're in there have an aluminum /aluminium driveshaft made as<br>
you will appreciate the weight reduction of the rotating mass.<br>
<br>
When you pull the handbrake it ratchets the rear caliper pistons into<br>
the pads to take up any slack. If the cable or the ratcheting mechanism<br>
is out of adjustment then the pads on that side will eventually not<br>
touch the rotor before the other side does. If your calipers are not<br>
leaking then they are most likely victim of poor adjustment/maintenance<br>
which can be addressed without dropping the differential. Yes, it's<br>
tight up in there but for my experience dropping the differential is one<br>
of the last things you want to do unless you have a lift and three<br>
husky, amiable friends. Also check the top edge of the differential<br>
mount for stress cracks while you're under there and weld or replace as<br>
you choose. And tighten the panhard rod mounting hardware tighter than<br>
factory specs so it won't shudder under cornering loads.<br>
<br>
Gross Scruggs<br>
Annapolis MD<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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