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<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">Yes, I agree with Michael that checking the front
mountings of the diff is <BR>step 1. My experience with worn diffs is also whine
not thump. If the left <BR>calliper is not engaging then checking the universals
may be difficult that <BR>side because the handbrake wont hold the disk still
and rocking the tyre <BR>backwards and forwards to test for free play may be
misleading . So you <BR>might have to jam the tyre and put a screwdriver through
the inboard <BR>universal to detect any free play. In my experience there is
very little <BR>that can be done with the calliper in place. However get someone
to operate <BR>the handbrake and watch its operation to make sure that the
operating levers <BR>go through their full motion. With the handbrake on you
should not be able <BR>to turn the tyre by hand. If you can then the self
adjusting mechanism is <BR>faulty. Try taking the operating lever off the left
calliper and use a <BR>spanner to turn the lever through its full movement.
Watch the pad inboard <BR>pad as it closes on the disk, it should push out but
not quite return by the <BR>same amount. The clicking noise will at least tell
you that the mechanism is <BR>in place even if not working properly. There is a
small window of <BR>opportunity for you that is caused by dirt and hardened
grease stopping the <BR>piston from progressing properly. If you dare: Take the
half shaft, pads and <BR>disk off. This will allow you to rock the calliper on
its hinge pin and <BR>remove the cover. Also to inspect the piston cup assembly.
(email me if you <BR>want the exploded diagram) It may be partially seized in
the body of the <BR>calliper by sticking to its "O" ring seal or stuck on the
threads of the <BR>push rod. You MAY be able to unscrew it right out, clean, re
grease, replace <BR>the "O" ring and screw back in provided you can stop the
push rod from <BR>turning (by jamming it inside the mechanism accessed with the
cover off. <BR>When you screw it back in you will need to align its lip so that
the inboard <BR>pad will engage and seat correctly. If you are very lucky this
will enable <BR>the self adjuster to work correctly. If unlucky you are well on
your way to <BR>removing the calliper. On another matter, do you think the right
calliper is <BR>faulty because the brake is dragging and hence getting hot. Its
no wonder P6 <BR>owners find that non expert servicing often neglects (ignores,
pretends they <BR>don't exist) the rear callipers.<BR><BR>Good luck Cheers Roger
(</FONT><A style='href: "mailto:roger.matheson@bigpond.com"'><FONT
face="Times New Roman">roger.matheson@bigpond.com</FONT></A><FONT
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