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Having never replaced the bleeders, I got the impression from the previous postings, that one has to fish out ball bearings from the caliper before installing the speed bleeders. Is this correct. And, are the bleeders for the Dunlop and Girling system
calipers the same size?</div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000" style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Rovernet <rovernet-bounces@rovernet.org> on behalf of Vern Inkspot via Rovernet <rovernet@rovernet.org><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 31, 2020 6:19 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Rovernet <rovernet@rovernet.org><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Vern Inkspot <vern@inkspotco.com><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Rovernet] Dunlop brake bleeding</font>
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<div class="PlainText">There are long & short versions of the bleeder, In the case of a Rover, the front should be long & the rear screw short.<br>
<br>
That would be my guess.<br>
<br>
Yours<br>
Vern<br>
<br>
> On Jul 31, 2020, at 5:15 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet <rovernet@rovernet.org> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Also noticed on their site three 3/8-24 listing. SB3824, SB3824SS and SB3824HDSS. Obviously the difference between the first two is the second number is a stainless steel option, but I have no idea what the HDSS relates to.<br>
> <br>
> Any ideas?<br>
> <br>
> Thanks, Lance<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> ________________________________<br>
> From: Rovernet <rovernet-bounces@rovernet.org> on behalf of Tom Rymes via Rovernet <rovernet@rovernet.org><br>
> Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 5:33 PM<br>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet@rovernet.org><br>
> Cc: Tom Rymes <tom@rymes.net><br>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Dunlop brake bleeding<br>
> <br>
> Steven,<br>
> <br>
> Thanks for the suggestion. I had tried to bleed the system with my trusty Eezi-bleed by Gunson after replacing the crappy imitation Lockheed servo with the real deal from SNG Barratt. Unfortunately, it didn’t take.<br>
> <br>
> Luckily, I thought of the Speed Bleeders that you mention the other day, and I ordered up four of them because I forgot I only needed 3!<br>
> <br>
> So, I fitted all three after fishing out the ball bearings from the calipers, and started up the car to let the servo help push out the air. It took maybe 15 minutes to fit all three, 39, tops, then 10 to actually bleed everything.<br>
> <br>
> The Dunlops take 3/8-24 thread, and they are available at <a href="http://speedbleeder.com/">
http://speedbleeder.com/</a><br>
> <br>
> Now to figure out what size and thread pitch the clutch slave takes!<br>
> <br>
> Tom<br>
> <br>
>> On Jul 31, 2020, at 5:04 PM, Steven Dibdin via Rovernet <rovernet@rovernet.org> wrote:<br>
>> <br>
>> I would add it’s well worth getting one man bleed nipples. They have a spring loaded check valve so you don’t need to close them on the upstroke. It’ll save you hours!<br>
>> <br>
>> Sent from a small screen, please excuse any typos.<br>
>> <br>
>>> On Jul 31, 2020, at 16:55, Vern Inkspot via Rovernet <rovernet@rovernet.org> wrote:<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Hi Tom<br>
>>> <br>
>>> That is correct, just the three bleed screws. Are you getting little/no fluid from the rear? Both of the rear hoses (body to caliper, caliper to caliper) tend to collapse over time and make it hard or impossible to bleed the system, not to mention not letting
the rear brakes work.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Yours<br>
>>> Vern<br>
>>> <br>
>>>>> On Jul 31, 2020, at 1:31 PM, trymes--- via Rovernet <rovernet@rovernet.org> wrote:<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> All,<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> It appears that there are only three bleeders on the Dunlop brake system on my ‘66 2000TC. One on each front wheel and a third on the LH rear caliper.<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> Does that make sense, or is the reason I have had trouble bleeding the system because there’s a fourth I somehow managed to miss?<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> Tom<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> _______________________________________________<br>
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>>> <br>
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