<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class="">Hi Bob.<div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Here is the text:</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><div class="">So you have to change the clutch in your LHD 2000 TC, and you don’t want to remove the engine, the way you are meant to? Read on for a step by step plan. Aside from the normal collection of hand tools, you will need a floor jack and a stout bit of 2×4 about 18˝ long as well as a three foot ⅜˝ drive extension.</div><div class="">Start by draining at least half of the coolant and disconnecting and removing the battery. At the front of the engine, unscrew the bolt holding the lower end of the engine steady rod. Remove the fastenings holding the radiator in place, and remove the oil cooler pipe clamps from below the battery if the car has an oil cooler. Place a blanket over the fan to protect the radiator. </div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">At the top of the engine, disconnect the brake booster vacuum line at the booster. Remove distributor cap. Remove oil dip stick. Remove window washer bottle. Slack the hose clamp at the front of the heater pipe and remove the two screws holding the pipe to the manifold. Remove the cam cover and the rear cam cover stud. Remove the insulation pad from the front of the heater box. Unclip the throttle rod and detach the throttle bracket from the steering box. Remove the lower heater hose from the manifold adapter. Remove the nuts holding the intake manifold in place, pull manifold from studs and rest in place.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Jack the car at the front, as high as possible, and set on stands. Under the engine, remove the clutch master cylinder from the bellhousing and tuck behind RH front suspension. Disconnect exhaust pipe and remove. Slacken both engine mount bolts.</div><div class="">Inside car, remove access plug and plate, remove clamp securing speedo cable and slacken pinch bolt securing the forward gear selector finger. Disconnect wires at reversing lamp switch on gearbox. Remove the gear shift knob, lock nut and reverse lockout. Remove console finisher, remove gearshift clamp plate bolts and remove gearshift lever.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Under the car again, disconnect propeller shaft at the gearbox and detach gearbox steady brace from gearshift lever mount plate. Slide gearshift rod back and out of its bushing at the rear of the gearbox. Remove cross bar from gearbox rear snub rubber. Remove the fasteners from one side of the gearbox spring mount, slacken other side and move mount out of way. Allow gearbox to hang after ensuring that carbs and radiator do not foul on engine. Using the long extension, remove the bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine, leaving one loosely in place. Ease the starter as clear of bellhousing as possible.</div><div class="">Using the floor jack and the 2×4, jack the front of the engine up, causing the engine and gearbox to tilt while ensuring radiator and carbs do not foul anything. Also check the fuel line from reserve tap to pump for fouling. Continue until the rear cam bearing cap touches the heater box.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Quickly once more under the car, remove the final bellhousing bolt, rotate the gearbox until the starter bulge will clear the tunnel and withdraw the gearbox from the clutch assembly. Lower the floor jack to take strain off the engine mounts while you replace the clutch assembly in the normal fashion.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Simply reverse the steps to reassemble.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Yours</div><div class="">Vern</div><div><br class=""><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div class="">On Oct 13, 2020, at 8:07 AM, Ruggeri, Robert via Rovernet <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org" class="">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=""><div class="">Excellent. Thank you so much. Standing by.<br class=""><br class=""><br class="">Bob <br class=""><br class=""><br class="">-----Original Message-----<br class="">From: Rovernet <<a href="mailto:rovernet-bounces@rovernet.org" class="">rovernet-bounces@rovernet.org</a>> On Behalf Of Vern Inkspot via Rovernet<br class="">Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2020 11:05 AM<br class="">To: Rovernet <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org" class="">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>><br class="">Cc: Vern Inkspot <<a href="mailto:vern@inkspotco.com" class="">vern@inkspotco.com</a>><br class="">Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Engine must be pulled for tranny?<br class=""><br class="">Hi Robert<br class=""><br class="">No, it is not correct. If you can hang on for a bit, I wrote a how-to for the Roverview some years ago that details what you have to do, I’ll try and fine that and you can print it off and take oto to your mechanic..<br class=""><br class="">Essentially what you do is tilt the engine way back on its mounts by detaching the front engine stay, and the gearbox can then be unbolted, rotated a bit and pulled clear. <br class=""><br class="">Yours<br class="">Vern<br class=""><br class=""><blockquote type="cite" class="">On Oct 13, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Ruggeri, Robert via Rovernet <<a href="mailto:rovernet@rovernet.org" class="">rovernet@rovernet.org</a>> wrote:<br class=""><br class="">Hi All<br class=""><br class="">I'm trying to replace the bad manual tranny in my 71 2000TC. Mechanic says that there isn’t enough room to do that without pulling the entire engine.<br class=""><br class="">Is that correct? Any suggestions? Help!<br class=""><br class="">Bob <br class=""><br class=""><br class="">ROBERT E. RUGGERI<br class="">1846 Union Street<br class="">Niskayuna, New York 12309<br class="">Tel: 518.423-9755 <br class="">Fax: 518.377-4646 <br class=""><a href="mailto:robert.ruggeri@suny.edu" class="">robert.ruggeri@suny.edu</a><br class="">_______________________________________________<br class="">Rovernet mailing list<br class="">Rovernet@rovernet.org<br class="">http://rovernet.org/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.org<br class=""></blockquote><br class=""><br class=""><a href="http://inkspotco.com" class="">inkspotco.com</a> · 250 864 5619 · <a href="mailto:in@inkspotco.com" class="">in@inkspotco.com</a><br class=""><br class="">-------------- next part --------------<br class="">An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br class="">URL: <<a href="http://rovernet.org/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.org/attachments/20201013/42836047/attachment.html" class="">http://rovernet.org/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.org/attachments/20201013/42836047/attachment.html</a>><br class="">-------------- next part --------------<br class="">A non-text attachment was scrubbed...<br class="">Name: E-mail Signature logo.png<br class="">Type: image/png<br class="">Size: 22660 bytes<br class="">Desc: not available<br class="">URL: <<a href="http://rovernet.org/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.org/attachments/20201013/42836047/attachment.png" class="">http://rovernet.org/pipermail/rovernet_rovernet.org/attachments/20201013/42836047/attachment.png</a>><br class="">_______________________________________________<br class="">Rovernet mailing list<br class=""><a href="mailto:Rovernet@rovernet.org" class="">Rovernet@rovernet.org</a><br class="">http://rovernet.org/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.org<br class="">_______________________________________________<br class="">Rovernet mailing list<br class="">Rovernet@rovernet.org<br class="">http://rovernet.org/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.org<br class=""></div></div></blockquote></div><br class=""><div class="">
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