[Rovernet] Rover 2000 Clutch

Sun Oct 27 02:47:58 EDT 2013

Dermot,

The reason for removing the rocker cover (and the fan blade) is to allow
the engine to tip back further. The top of the engine at the back is very
close to the bulkhead and quickly fouls it. I believe others claim it can
be done with the rocker/fan in situ but personally for the sake of another
5-10 mins to remove them I always do.

You are quite correct on alignment being easier with both out, the last
thing you want with the gearbox sitting in your lap is not to be able to
push it home to the back of the engine.

With this in mind, many years ago I scrapped an old gearbox and removed the
front input shaft thus ensuring a perfect clutch alignment every time! ;)

Good luck with it, the need to remove BOTH servos (boosters) and re-bleed
would be enough to convince me to leave the engine where it is.

Regards

Alan Francis (partviking)

Hi Rovernetters!

Wow, what a treasure trove of info out there! Thanks all of you for your
suggestions.
Funny that in an otherwise excellent shop manual there is no mention of
getting at the clutch to replace it.
I think I'm going to go the 'engine stays in route' as I am still
reasonably strong and I seem to remember the gearbox is fairly light. The
best reason for removing the whole lump is that its much easier to reattach
the gearbox after replacing the clutch. However, going into the braking
system to remove a servo necessitates bleeding the system which is a bit of
a pain
Not sure, Alan, why you would want to remove the rocker cover.
I do have a chain hoist, so I might use this to lift the front of the
engine. Alas, no pit. American are very paranoid about pits, though I think
they're still pretty popular in the UK.
Gotta get another car on the road before I start the job - then I'll let
you know how I get on.

Dermot Harvey

On Oct 24, 2013, at 6:17 AM, Juliet Keiler wrote:

Hi Dermot,

If you have no lift then pulling the transmission from beneath is quite
straightforward and the procedure is as follows.

In the engine bay remove the top hose, heater hoses, front stabiliser bar,
carb linkage between carb & bulkhead. Loosen the engine mount nuts to the
end of the thread but do NOT remove.

Opinion varies but I also remove the rocker cover and fan blades.

Beneath the car disconnect propshaft, gear lever linkage and gearbox
mounting cross-bar & spring mount, reverse switch wires and speedo cable.

Again opinion varies but I also remove the exhaust.

You then jack under the front of the engine thus raising it and lowering
the back, I usually get it to a position where the sump is ‘resting’ in the
front x-member.

You then split the bell housing from the engine (in practice it may be
easier to remove most of the bolts prior to tipping it back) and once
separated spin the gearbox until the starter motor ‘bulge’ in the
bell-housing (which prevents it being pulled straight back) is at the top
in the tunnel, once up there you’ll find it has enough room to pull back
and away.

Depending on your physical strength the box is either very heavy or quite
light. I did my 1964 2000 car last Sunday and it took me about 4 hours from
start to finish though I had already drained the water previously. The real
key is to get the car high enough both front and back so you have room to
work, if you have a pit the whole job is considerably easier.

Good luck and any questions please let me know and I’ll try and help.

Best Regards

Alan Francis (partviking)

P.S. Not sure if the second servo will cause a problem as I only have the
one but there should be enough room to tip back even with two

________________________________

From: Dermot Harvey <roverman2 at verizon.net>

To: Rovernet at rovernet.org

Sent: Thursday, 24 October 2013, 1:05

Subject: [Rovernet] 2000 Clutch

Hi Rovernetters,

Alas, my 'New' 1971 2000 has a slipping clutch!

It's been longer than I like to remember since I did a clutch on a 2000.
I'm trying to remember whether to pull the engine and trans as a unit, or
whether to pull the trans only. No lift where I am now, so it won't be easy.

Looks as though the brake servos might get in the way if I pull both engine
and trans. Not sure about the exhaust manifold either - I don't really want
to pull that.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

Dermot Harvey

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