[Rovernet] Rovernet Digest, Vol 106, Issue 7

Robert Ruggeri robert.ruggeri.esq at outlook.com
Thu May 19 13:04:33 EDT 2022


Thanks for the ideas.  Will have them checked.

Bob


From: Rovernet <rovernet-bounces at rovernet.org> On Behalf Of Kellogg, Charles via Rovernet
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2022 1:02 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.org
Cc: Kellogg, Charles <charlesk at darebritannia.com>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Rovernet Digest, Vol 106, Issue 7

Steven's words are all good. 1 other possible issue: if the coil has been replaced it may B the wrong type (there are 2 basic types: ballasted and non-ballasted, possibly changed B4 U bought it. The wrong type can melt the rubbing block if U have points. ALSO having the wrong kind of plug wires can cause issues; the wires must B the correct kind for points vs. electronic pickups. If U have points 1 quick check is 2 make sure they're both opening and have the correct gap. I suggest checking the fuel pressure: s.b. about 1.75-2.25 PSI       A bad condenser can go out slowly and make diagnosis challenging. This is called an emerging problem.


Charles Kellogg
Director of Restorations
Dare Britannia, Ltd.
1043 Kaiser Rd. SW, Unit C
Olympia, WA  98512, USA
http://www.darebritannia.com/<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.darebritannia.com%2F&data=05%7C01%7C%7C89e8c2241f334a344d2d08da39b970dc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885765901357470%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=ZEaiPgaYc74hRlfy2d84cKQWtUo6xdHHuxUzgtkZp2E%3D&reserved=0>

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Thank you for your enquiry for our parts and services. We offer the highest-quality spare parts for the vintage Land -Rover. Our staff is minuscule while the demand for rare and "unobtainable" parts for early Land-Rovers is relentless. While your concern is important to us, our ability to respond to each and every enquiry may be limited and stocks of many items are critically low.. We are primarily a restoration-based enterprise but when we have a surplus of a given  item, we are able to offer excess stocks to our dedicated clients. If your need is urgent, we encourage you to contact us by phone, in person. Leaving a message is rarely effective, so we recommend direct contact. With many buildings full of parts, it is not always easy to locate obscure items, and the process is often time consuming. We hope you understand. Please provide complete details of your exact model including year, wheelbase, which side drive, engine, Country of origin, etc. When giving part numbers, please also state the catalogue number (typically found on the front cover).  We appreciate your understanding and will do all we can to help.

Voice 360-866-2254


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On Thu, May 19, 2022 at 9:01 AM <rovernet-request at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet-request at rovernet.org>> wrote:
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Today's Topics:

   1. P6 dies after 20 minutes (Robert Ruggeri)
   2. Re: P6 dies after 20 minutes (Steven Dibdin)
   3. Re: P6 dies after 20 minutes (Tom Rymes)
   4. Re: Rovernet Digest, Vol 106, Issue 6 (Kellogg, Charles)
   5. Re: P6 dies after 20 minutes (larry williamson)
   6. Re: P6 dies after 20 minutes (Gordon Reddy)
   7. Re: P6 dies after 20 minutes (Robert Ruggeri)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 18 May 2022 16:19:42 +0000
From: Robert Ruggeri <robert.ruggeri.esq at outlook.com<mailto:robert.ruggeri.esq at outlook.com>>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>>
Subject: [Rovernet] P6 dies after 20 minutes
Message-ID:
        <MN2PR04MB7136C6C89C4AC3060B33ABAFDED19 at MN2PR04MB7136.namprd04.prod.outlook.com<mailto:MN2PR04MB7136C6C89C4AC3060B33ABAFDED19 at MN2PR04MB7136.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi All:

New starter is working fine on the 2000TC.  Car starts up right away with choke.  Holds a nice idle a minute later with no choke.  Car idles fine for 20 minutes then dies.  Car will not start thereafter (until cold).

Something heating up, like a coil?

Bob
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 18 May 2022 12:33:01 -0400
From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at gmail.com<mailto:sdibdin at gmail.com>>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] P6 dies after 20 minutes
Message-ID:
        <CAC5dAAeU1jyKTVhb8DcQrEYn6knqj4jSU1H06BuRdnn_B-9SCw at mail.gmail.com<mailto:CAC5dAAeU1jyKTVhb8DcQrEYn6knqj4jSU1H06BuRdnn_B-9SCw at mail.gmail.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Check for spark first. If no spark check following:

[1] Feel coil, does it feel too hot to touch? Take off low tension wires
and measure across terminals with ohmmeter. It should read 1.5-3ohms. Full
short and it's dead, infinite ohms and it's also dead.
[2] I've seen ballast resistors fail this way too (work for a while then
die). When car fails to start, measure resistance from wire coming from
distributor to coil via tacho inside car. I believe its white with a black
trace. If you see infinite ohms, ballast resistor is dead. Unfortunately
that's built into the wiring harness inside the dash. Easiest solution is
to run a new wire with an external ballast resistor of still using
conventional ignition.
[3] Have you changed the condenser recently? Modern ones have real problems
with quality control and frequently fail shortly after fitting. You might
want to upgrade to an electronic system such as pertronix, Accuspark or, my
favorite magnatronic
http://autocar-electrical.co.uk/lumenition-range/magnetronic-product-guide<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautocar-electrical.co.uk%2Flumenition-range%2Fmagnetronic-product-guide&data=05%7C01%7C%7C89e8c2241f334a344d2d08da39b970dc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885765901357470%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=XtFaGFDdNyWki%2BgCh0gUGXCXmphtaw29ZFWqvNedUTc%3D&reserved=0>

If you do have a spark, suspect no fuel. I had a problem where ethanol had
attacked the rubber diaphragm inside the fuel pump. It only manifested
itself when the car was warm and started as a small misfire until one day
it died completely. Also check fuel line routing, heat can cause vapour
lock, especially with ethanol based fuels due to their lower boiling point.

Hope the above helps and good luck!

Steven

On Wed, May 18, 2022 at 12:20 PM Robert Ruggeri via Rovernet <
rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:

> *Hi All:*
>
>
>
> *New starter is working fine on the 2000TC.  Car starts up right away with
> choke.  Holds a nice idle a minute later with no choke.  Car idles fine for
> 20 minutes then dies.  Car will not start thereafter (until cold).*
>
>
>
> *Something heating up, like a coil?*
>
>
>
> *Bob *
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:Rovernet at rovernet.org>
> http://rovernet.org/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.org<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frovernet.org%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Frovernet_rovernet.org&data=05%7C01%7C%7C89e8c2241f334a344d2d08da39b970dc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885765901357470%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=7waNpYooTN4UeVtmbuJCW9COR2VWZNfTLmuI1HTdRC0%3D&reserved=0>
>
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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 18 May 2022 13:22:11 -0400
From: Tom Rymes <tom at rymes.net<mailto:tom at rymes.net>>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] P6 dies after 20 minutes
Message-ID: <C94DDAE1-2192-48E9-BDA4-6EE3EA12E13E at rymes.net<mailto:C94DDAE1-2192-48E9-BDA4-6EE3EA12E13E at rymes.net>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Steven has a lot of good advice. I would also open the fuel filler and confirm that it isn?t under vacuum (though I find that quite unlikely).

Tom

> On May 18, 2022, at 12:33 PM, Steven Dibdin via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:
>
> ?
> Check for spark first. If no spark check following:
>
> [1] Feel coil, does it feel too hot to touch? Take off low tension wires and measure across terminals with ohmmeter. It should read 1.5-3ohms. Full short and it's dead, infinite ohms and it's also dead.
> [2] I've seen ballast resistors fail this way too (work for a while then die). When car fails to start, measure resistance from wire coming from distributor to coil via tacho inside car. I believe its white with a black trace. If you see infinite ohms, ballast resistor is dead. Unfortunately that's built into the wiring harness inside the dash. Easiest solution is to run a new wire with an external ballast resistor of still using conventional ignition.
> [3] Have you changed the condenser recently? Modern ones have real problems with quality control and frequently fail shortly after fitting. You might want to upgrade to an electronic system such as pertronix, Accuspark or, my favorite magnatronic http://autocar-electrical.co.uk/lumenition-range/magnetronic-product-guide<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautocar-electrical.co.uk%2Flumenition-range%2Fmagnetronic-product-guide&data=05%7C01%7C%7C89e8c2241f334a344d2d08da39b970dc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885765901513707%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=uFVRuRtHf2ayw68MnXs7ygRBCUDYMwTC%2BCZV4p11t8k%3D&reserved=0>
>
> If you do have a spark, suspect no fuel. I had a problem where ethanol had attacked the rubber diaphragm inside the fuel pump. It only manifested itself when the car was warm and started as a small misfire until one day it died completely. Also check fuel line routing, heat can cause vapour lock, especially with ethanol based fuels due to their lower boiling point.
>
> Hope the above helps and good luck!
>
> Steven
>
>> On Wed, May 18, 2022 at 12:20 PM Robert Ruggeri via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:
>> Hi All:
>>
>>
>>
>> New starter is working fine on the 2000TC.  Car starts up right away with choke.  Holds a nice idle a minute later with no choke.  Car idles fine for 20 minutes then dies.  Car will not start thereafter (until cold).
>>
>>
>>
>> Something heating up, like a coil?
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:Rovernet at rovernet.org>
>> http://rovernet.org/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.org<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frovernet.org%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Frovernet_rovernet.org&data=05%7C01%7C%7C89e8c2241f334a344d2d08da39b970dc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885765901513707%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=Qa7XEkLhxPRc4MehqLiRcjVc3V9AXaG6HROr6gdUL8s%3D&reserved=0>
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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 18 May 2022 11:16:22 -0700
From: "Kellogg, Charles" <charlesk at darebritannia.com<mailto:charlesk at darebritannia.com>>
To: rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Rovernet Digest, Vol 106, Issue 6
Message-ID:
        <CAEuq98up0fSkg-8TdBB-4aXOjT+HRnUMXnC9B7PFbdv=8MZL1w at mail.gmail.com<mailto:8MZL1w at mail.gmail.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

IMPO if your flex hoses haven't been replaced in a year or 2 I highly recommend
doing that, especially if they're hard to access. These hoses can break
down on the inside and introduce debris into the fluid and block the flow
of brake fluid.

Charles Kellogg
Director of Restorations
Dare Britannia, Ltd.
1043 Kaiser Rd. SW, Unit C
Olympia, WA  98512, USA
http://www.darebritannia.com/<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.darebritannia.com%2F&data=05%7C01%7C%7C89e8c2241f334a344d2d08da39b970dc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885765901513707%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=DKVGLW1aoiU%2Fje%2FjfhS%2BAs2anOA29IMruLU7%2FkECCxw%3D&reserved=0>

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*Thank you for your enquiry for our parts and services. We offer the
highest-quality spare parts for the vintage Land -Rover. Our staff is
minuscule while the demand for rare and ?unobtainable? parts for early
Land-Rovers is relentless. While your concern is important to us, our
ability to respond to each and every enquiry may be limited and stocks of
many items are critically low.. We are primarily a restoration-based
enterprise but when we have a surplus of a given  item, we are able to
offer excess stocks to our dedicated clients. If your need is urgent, we
encourage you to contact us by phone, in person. Leaving a message is
rarely effective, so we recommend direct contact. With many buildings full
of parts, it is not always easy to locate obscure items, and the process is
often time consuming. We hope you understand. Please
provide complete details of your exact model including year, wheelbase,
which side drive, engine, Country of origin, etc. When giving part numbers,
please also state the catalogue number (typically found on the front
cover).  We appreciate your understanding and will do all we can to help.*


Voice 360-866-2254


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On Wed, May 18, 2022 at 9:01 AM <rovernet-request at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet-request at rovernet.org>> wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. rear girling brakes (larry williamson)
>    2. Re: rear girling brakes (Vern Inkspot)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 18 May 2022 08:35:19 -0600
> From: larry williamson <lewill4756 at gmail.com<mailto:lewill4756 at gmail.com>>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>>
> Subject: [Rovernet] rear girling brakes
> Message-ID:
>         <
> CAPSjzi6hUyrTWmg+JjUgJrrN3fXAFG4spccp6H-_ik9--RsNOw at mail.gmail.com<mailto:CAPSjzi6hUyrTWmg%2BJjUgJrrN3fXAFG4spccp6H-_ik9--RsNOw at mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Thanks to Tony and Malcolm. I am about to replace the calipers with new
> ones. The question is this: is it possible to keep the hoses on both
> calipers and fit them on together?. I will be working under a lift this
> time Yay. Larry
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 18 May 2022 08:23:47 -0700
> From: Vern Inkspot <vern at inkspotco.com<mailto:vern at inkspotco.com>>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet] rear girling brakes
> Message-ID: <12E0ADF4-BBE9-41AE-A113-B5708ACC171C at inkspotco.com<mailto:12E0ADF4-BBE9-41AE-A113-B5708ACC171C at inkspotco.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Only if you lower the rear of the diff some by removing the three bolts
> holding the back of the diff to the mounting plate and removing the drive
> shaft. The half shafts can stay attached. You?ll need some sort of support
> so the diff doesn?t hang off the front mount ? a 2x4 cut to length works if
> you?re got it up on a lift.
>
> Yours
> Vern
>
> > On May 18, 2022, at 7:35 AM, larry williamson via Rovernet <
> rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks to Tony and Malcolm. I am about to replace the calipers with new
> ones. The question is this: is it possible to keep the hoses on both
> calipers and fit them on together?. I will be working under a lift this
> time Yay. Larry
> >
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> inkspotco.com<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Finkspotco.com%2F&data=05%7C01%7C%7C89e8c2241f334a344d2d08da39b970dc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885765901513707%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=sT8H4qHQMbZ2zZAC9fjCbjWNF71YtuzdMtIngWFcrGk%3D&reserved=0> ? 250 864 5619 ? in at inkspotco.com<mailto:in at inkspotco.com>
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------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 18 May 2022 16:59:40 -0600
From: larry williamson <lewill4756 at gmail.com<mailto:lewill4756 at gmail.com>>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] P6 dies after 20 minutes
Message-ID:
        <CAPSjzi5TY8=M4aawCDFh1B+L4h-wN1QeOC-c_Tt=-Ndvkw6Yrw at mail.gmail.com<mailto:Ndvkw6Yrw at mail.gmail.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I had a P6 that would stall and then after sitting for a few minutes it
would go again for a while. It was the condenser that was the problem . I
change it and all was well. Larry

On Wed, May 18, 2022 at 11:22 AM Tom Rymes via Rovernet <
rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:

> Steven has a lot of good advice. I would also open the fuel filler and
> confirm that it isn?t under vacuum (though I find that quite unlikely).
>
> Tom
>
> On May 18, 2022, at 12:33 PM, Steven Dibdin via Rovernet <
> rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:
>
> ?
> Check for spark first. If no spark check following:
>
> [1] Feel coil, does it feel too hot to touch? Take off low tension wires
> and measure across terminals with ohmmeter. It should read 1.5-3ohms. Full
> short and it's dead, infinite ohms and it's also dead.
> [2] I've seen ballast resistors fail this way too (work for a while then
> die). When car fails to start, measure resistance from wire coming from
> distributor to coil via tacho inside car. I believe its white with a black
> trace. If you see infinite ohms, ballast resistor is dead. Unfortunately
> that's built into the wiring harness inside the dash. Easiest solution is
> to run a new wire with an external ballast resistor of still using
> conventional ignition.
> [3] Have you changed the condenser recently? Modern ones have real
> problems with quality control and frequently fail shortly after fitting.
> You might want to upgrade to an electronic system such as pertronix,
> Accuspark or, my favorite magnatronic
> http://autocar-electrical.co.uk/lumenition-range/magnetronic-product-guide<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautocar-electrical.co.uk%2Flumenition-range%2Fmagnetronic-product-guide&data=05%7C01%7C%7C89e8c2241f334a344d2d08da39b970dc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885765901513707%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=uFVRuRtHf2ayw68MnXs7ygRBCUDYMwTC%2BCZV4p11t8k%3D&reserved=0>
>
> If you do have a spark, suspect no fuel. I had a problem where ethanol had
> attacked the rubber diaphragm inside the fuel pump. It only manifested
> itself when the car was warm and started as a small misfire until one day
> it died completely. Also check fuel line routing, heat can cause vapour
> lock, especially with ethanol based fuels due to their lower boiling point.
>
> Hope the above helps and good luck!
>
> Steven
>
> On Wed, May 18, 2022 at 12:20 PM Robert Ruggeri via Rovernet <
> rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:
>
>> *Hi All:*
>>
>>
>>
>> *New starter is working fine on the 2000TC.  Car starts up right away
>> with choke.  Holds a nice idle a minute later with no choke.  Car idles
>> fine for 20 minutes then dies.  Car will not start thereafter (until cold).*
>>
>>
>>
>> *Something heating up, like a coil?*
>>
>>
>>
>> *Bob *
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:Rovernet at rovernet.org>
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>>
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------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 18 May 2022 17:00:24 -0700
From: Gordon Reddy <gorgowof at gmail.com<mailto:gorgowof at gmail.com>>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] P6 dies after 20 minutes
Message-ID:
        <CAGxhdkG7tg+E7jug41EpY=vJUr=Nenj3-t13GbPFAjZjJuo1+A at mail.gmail.com<mailto:Nenj3-t13GbPFAjZjJuo1%2BA at mail.gmail.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I had a problem with the tank breather line. It had somehow stretched and
closed itself off where it travelled through the rear deck to the B pillar.
I doubt that's the problem but if you open the filler cap and hear air
rushing in and/or run the car with the cap open and it is fine then that's
the problem. I tend to agree with the condenser theory.
Cheers,
Gord

On Wed, 18 May 2022 at 16:00, larry williamson via Rovernet <
rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:

> I had a P6 that would stall and then after sitting for a few minutes it
> would go again for a while. It was the condenser that was the problem . I
> change it and all was well. Larry
>
> On Wed, May 18, 2022 at 11:22 AM Tom Rymes via Rovernet <
> rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:
>
>> Steven has a lot of good advice. I would also open the fuel filler and
>> confirm that it isn?t under vacuum (though I find that quite unlikely).
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> On May 18, 2022, at 12:33 PM, Steven Dibdin via Rovernet <
>> rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Check for spark first. If no spark check following:
>>
>> [1] Feel coil, does it feel too hot to touch? Take off low tension wires
>> and measure across terminals with ohmmeter. It should read 1.5-3ohms. Full
>> short and it's dead, infinite ohms and it's also dead.
>> [2] I've seen ballast resistors fail this way too (work for a while then
>> die). When car fails to start, measure resistance from wire coming from
>> distributor to coil via tacho inside car. I believe its white with a black
>> trace. If you see infinite ohms, ballast resistor is dead. Unfortunately
>> that's built into the wiring harness inside the dash. Easiest solution is
>> to run a new wire with an external ballast resistor of still using
>> conventional ignition.
>> [3] Have you changed the condenser recently? Modern ones have real
>> problems with quality control and frequently fail shortly after fitting.
>> You might want to upgrade to an electronic system such as pertronix,
>> Accuspark or, my favorite magnatronic
>> http://autocar-electrical.co.uk/lumenition-range/magnetronic-product-guide<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautocar-electrical.co.uk%2Flumenition-range%2Fmagnetronic-product-guide&data=05%7C01%7C%7C89e8c2241f334a344d2d08da39b970dc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885765901513707%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=uFVRuRtHf2ayw68MnXs7ygRBCUDYMwTC%2BCZV4p11t8k%3D&reserved=0>
>>
>> If you do have a spark, suspect no fuel. I had a problem where ethanol
>> had attacked the rubber diaphragm inside the fuel pump. It only manifested
>> itself when the car was warm and started as a small misfire until one day
>> it died completely. Also check fuel line routing, heat can cause vapour
>> lock, especially with ethanol based fuels due to their lower boiling point.
>>
>> Hope the above helps and good luck!
>>
>> Steven
>>
>> On Wed, May 18, 2022 at 12:20 PM Robert Ruggeri via Rovernet <
>> rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:
>>
>>> *Hi All:*
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *New starter is working fine on the 2000TC.  Car starts up right away
>>> with choke.  Holds a nice idle a minute later with no choke.  Car idles
>>> fine for 20 minutes then dies.  Car will not start thereafter (until cold).*
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Something heating up, like a coil?*
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Bob *
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Rovernet mailing list
>>> Rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:Rovernet at rovernet.org>
>>> http://rovernet.org/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.org<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frovernet.org%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Frovernet_rovernet.org&data=05%7C01%7C%7C89e8c2241f334a344d2d08da39b970dc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885765901513707%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=Qa7XEkLhxPRc4MehqLiRcjVc3V9AXaG6HROr6gdUL8s%3D&reserved=0>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 19 May 2022 01:33:21 +0000
From: Robert Ruggeri <robert.ruggeri.esq at outlook.com<mailto:robert.ruggeri.esq at outlook.com>>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] P6 dies after 20 minutes
Message-ID:
        <MN2PR04MB7136C418DC00CE66010C74FFDED09 at MN2PR04MB7136.namprd04.prod.outlook.com<mailto:MN2PR04MB7136C418DC00CE66010C74FFDED09 at MN2PR04MB7136.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

As always, many thanks for the good advice.  I?ll follow up and let you know at some point.

Bob

From: Rovernet <rovernet-bounces at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.org>> On Behalf Of larry williamson via Rovernet
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2022 7:00 PM
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>>
Cc: larry williamson <lewill4756 at gmail.com<mailto:lewill4756 at gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] P6 dies after 20 minutes

I had a P6 that would stall and then after sitting for a few minutes it would go again for a while. It was the condenser that was the problem . I change it and all was well. Larry

On Wed, May 18, 2022 at 11:22 AM Tom Rymes via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org><mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>>> wrote:
Steven has a lot of good advice. I would also open the fuel filler and confirm that it isn?t under vacuum (though I find that quite unlikely).

Tom


On May 18, 2022, at 12:33 PM, Steven Dibdin via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org><mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>>> wrote:
?
Check for spark first. If no spark check following:

[1] Feel coil, does it feel too hot to touch? Take off low tension wires and measure across terminals with ohmmeter. It should read 1.5-3ohms. Full short and it's dead, infinite ohms and it's also dead.
[2] I've seen ballast resistors fail this way too (work for a while then die). When car fails to start, measure resistance from wire coming from distributor to coil via tacho inside car. I believe its white with a black trace. If you see infinite ohms, ballast resistor is dead. Unfortunately that's built into the wiring harness inside the dash. Easiest solution is to run a new wire with an external ballast resistor of still using conventional ignition.
[3] Have you changed the condenser recently? Modern ones have real problems with quality control and frequently fail shortly after fitting. You might want to upgrade to an electronic system such as pertronix, Accuspark or, my favorite magnatronic http://autocar-electrical.co.uk/lumenition-range/magnetronic-product-guide<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautocar-electrical.co.uk%2Flumenition-range%2Fmagnetronic-product-guide&data=05%7C01%7C%7C89e8c2241f334a344d2d08da39b970dc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885765901513707%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=uFVRuRtHf2ayw68MnXs7ygRBCUDYMwTC%2BCZV4p11t8k%3D&reserved=0><https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautocar-electrical.co.uk%2Flumenition-range%2Fmagnetronic-product-guide&data=05%7C01%7C%7C6a11d810458d48f97c0c08da3922422b%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885116547079868%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=fAePu7rO%2Ff1x%2FG3Ib6D1cBNwJZ6JOdXfx5wvhanto0k%3D&reserved=0<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautocar-electrical.co.uk%2Flumenition-range%2Fmagnetronic-product-guide&data=05%7C01%7C%7C89e8c2241f334a344d2d08da39b970dc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885765901513707%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=uFVRuRtHf2ayw68MnXs7ygRBCUDYMwTC%2BCZV4p11t8k%3D&reserved=0>>

If you do have a spark, suspect no fuel. I had a problem where ethanol had attacked the rubber diaphragm inside the fuel pump. It only manifested itself when the car was warm and started as a small misfire until one day it died completely. Also check fuel line routing, heat can cause vapour lock, especially with ethanol based fuels due to their lower boiling point.

Hope the above helps and good luck!

Steven

On Wed, May 18, 2022 at 12:20 PM Robert Ruggeri via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org><mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>>> wrote:
Hi All:

New starter is working fine on the 2000TC.  Car starts up right away with choke.  Holds a nice idle a minute later with no choke.  Car idles fine for 20 minutes then dies.  Car will not start thereafter (until cold).

Something heating up, like a coil?

Bob
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