[Rovernet] P6 dies after 20 minutes

Robert Ruggeri robert.ruggeri.esq at outlook.com
Wed May 18 21:33:21 EDT 2022


As always, many thanks for the good advice.  I’ll follow up and let you know at some point.

Bob

From: Rovernet <rovernet-bounces at rovernet.org> On Behalf Of larry williamson via Rovernet
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2022 7:00 PM
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org>
Cc: larry williamson <lewill4756 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet] P6 dies after 20 minutes

I had a P6 that would stall and then after sitting for a few minutes it would go again for a while. It was the condenser that was the problem . I change it and all was well. Larry

On Wed, May 18, 2022 at 11:22 AM Tom Rymes via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:
Steven has a lot of good advice. I would also open the fuel filler and confirm that it isn’t under vacuum (though I find that quite unlikely).

Tom


On May 18, 2022, at 12:33 PM, Steven Dibdin via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:

Check for spark first. If no spark check following:

[1] Feel coil, does it feel too hot to touch? Take off low tension wires and measure across terminals with ohmmeter. It should read 1.5-3ohms. Full short and it's dead, infinite ohms and it's also dead.
[2] I've seen ballast resistors fail this way too (work for a while then die). When car fails to start, measure resistance from wire coming from distributor to coil via tacho inside car. I believe its white with a black trace. If you see infinite ohms, ballast resistor is dead. Unfortunately that's built into the wiring harness inside the dash. Easiest solution is to run a new wire with an external ballast resistor of still using conventional ignition.
[3] Have you changed the condenser recently? Modern ones have real problems with quality control and frequently fail shortly after fitting. You might want to upgrade to an electronic system such as pertronix, Accuspark or, my favorite magnatronic http://autocar-electrical.co.uk/lumenition-range/magnetronic-product-guide<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautocar-electrical.co.uk%2Flumenition-range%2Fmagnetronic-product-guide&data=05%7C01%7C%7C6a11d810458d48f97c0c08da3922422b%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637885116547079868%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=fAePu7rO%2Ff1x%2FG3Ib6D1cBNwJZ6JOdXfx5wvhanto0k%3D&reserved=0>

If you do have a spark, suspect no fuel. I had a problem where ethanol had attacked the rubber diaphragm inside the fuel pump. It only manifested itself when the car was warm and started as a small misfire until one day it died completely. Also check fuel line routing, heat can cause vapour lock, especially with ethanol based fuels due to their lower boiling point.

Hope the above helps and good luck!

Steven

On Wed, May 18, 2022 at 12:20 PM Robert Ruggeri via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.org>> wrote:
Hi All:

New starter is working fine on the 2000TC.  Car starts up right away with choke.  Holds a nice idle a minute later with no choke.  Car idles fine for 20 minutes then dies.  Car will not start thereafter (until cold).

Something heating up, like a coil?

Bob
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