[Rovernet] Dunlop brake bleeding

Sat Aug 1 08:59:43 EDT 2020

I’ve always been nervous of pressure bleeders on P6’s with remote reservoirs. There a real possibility of a low pressure line popping off the master cylinder and spraying brake fluid around. I’ve found the factory method of one full push on the pedal followed by three rapid short pushes works well. 

Sent from a small screen, please excuse any typos. 

> On Aug 1, 2020, at 08:40, Ben Saunders via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org> wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Ben Saunders here and I have had similar problems in the past. The trouble is the past is now a long time back and my memory is a short time now. I did purchase a pump up bleeder that has a pressure bladder that holds brake fluid and connects to the system via a reservoir cap (which will have to be fabed from an old cap that fits your system) and pumps up similar to what Vern stated then it will push fluid through the system to the bleeders that you open. Take in mind to work from the closest to the farthest. I used this on the last of my 3500S's and it worked fine. This system keeps you from allowing air to get back into the system.
> 
> PS: Anyone interested in a 1960 Rover 100 or a 1948 Rover P3 75?
> 
> 
>> On 07/31/2020 11:55 PM, Roger Matheson via Rovernet wrote:
>> Hello All,
>> 
>> I have tried all the variations of bleeding and the one that I think is the simplest is called power bleeding. I have fitted an air hose coupling into the screw top of the brake fluid cannister and set my compressor to 5 pounds delivery. I then connect a clear plastic tube to the bleed screw emptying into a glass jar. I then unscrew the bleeder and the air pressure in the cannister pushes fluid out of the calliper. Initially air bubbles are evident in the plastic tube, but when the fluid is clear then I know the calliper is bled completely. I then replenish fluid in the cannister and move to the other callipers. This is a one man job and does not involve pressing the brake pedal. I have used this procedure when changing boosters, callipers and hoses. I also use it when replacing the fluid at service intervals (when I use a different coloured fluid). The only catch is to ensure that the cannister does not empty. Cheers from Roger in Oz
>> 
>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>> 
>> From: Vern Inkspot via Rovernet
>> Sent: Saturday, 1 August 2020 12:40 PM
>> To: Rovernet
>> Cc: Vern Inkspot
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Dunlop brake bleeding
>> 
>> To be clear, long or short, either length will work just fine in any position on the car. As I recall, the only hassle is the front calipers get a little harder to get a wrench on with the wheel still attached.
>> 
>> Yours
>> Vern
>> 
>>>> On Jul 31, 2020, at 6:05 PM, Tom Rymes via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Lance,
>>> 
>>> As Vern has mentioned, it’s only the Dunlops that have the ball bearing. If you pull out a bleeder and it has a tapered end, there’s no ball. Even if there is, It’s easy to get out, you just insert a small magnetized screwdriver and it will come right out.
>>> 
>>> For your earlier question about the different part numbers for the bleeders, just call on Monday. The woman I spoke with couldn’t confirm what the Rover needed, but she was knowledgeable about the product.
>>> 
>>> Tom
>>> 
>>>> On Jul 31, 2020, at 8:23 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Having never replaced the bleeders, I got the impression from the previous postings, that one has to fish out ball bearings from the caliper before installing the speed bleeders.   Is this correct.    And, are the bleeders for the Dunlop and Girling system calipers the same size?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ________________________________
>>>> From: Rovernet <rovernet-bounces at rovernet.org> on behalf of Vern Inkspot via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org>
>>>> Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 6:19 PM
>>>> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org>
>>>> Cc: Vern Inkspot <vern at inkspotco.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Dunlop brake bleeding
>>>> 
>>>> There are long & short versions of the bleeder, In the case of a Rover, the front should be long & the rear screw short.
>>>> 
>>>> That would be my guess.
>>>> 
>>>> Yours
>>>> Vern
>>>> 
>>>>> On Jul 31, 2020, at 5:15 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Also noticed on their site three  3/8-24 listing.     SB3824,  SB3824SS  and SB3824HDSS.   Obviously the difference between the first two is the second number is a stainless steel option, but I have no idea what the HDSS relates to.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Any ideas?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks,  Lance
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>> From: Rovernet <rovernet-bounces at rovernet.org> on behalf of Tom Rymes via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org>
>>>>> Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 5:33 PM
>>>>> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org>
>>>>> Cc: Tom Rymes <tom at rymes.net>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet] Dunlop brake bleeding
>>>>> 
>>>>> Steven,
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks for the suggestion. I had tried to bleed the system with my trusty Eezi-bleed by Gunson after replacing the crappy imitation Lockheed servo with the real deal from SNG Barratt. Unfortunately, it didn’t take.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Luckily, I thought of the Speed Bleeders that you mention the other day, and I ordered up four of them because I forgot I only needed 3!
>>>>> 
>>>>> So, I fitted all three after fishing out the ball bearings from the calipers, and started up the car to let the servo help push out the air. It took maybe 15 minutes to fit all three, 39, tops, then 10 to actually bleed everything.
>>>>> 
>>>>> The Dunlops take 3/8-24 thread, and they are available at http://speedbleeder.com/
>>>>> 
>>>>> Now to figure out what size and thread pitch the clutch slave takes!
>>>>> 
>>>>> Tom
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Jul 31, 2020, at 5:04 PM, Steven Dibdin via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org> wrote:
>>>>>> I would add it’s well worth getting one man bleed nipples. They have a spring loaded check valve so you don’t need to close them on the upstroke. It’ll save you hours!
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from a small screen, please excuse any typos.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Jul 31, 2020, at 16:55, Vern Inkspot via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Hi Tom
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> That is correct, just the three bleed screws. Are you getting little/no fluid from the rear? Both of the rear hoses (body to caliper, caliper to caliper) tend to collapse over time and make it hard or impossible to bleed the system, not to mention not letting the rear brakes work.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Yours
>>>>>>> Vern
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Jul 31, 2020, at 1:31 PM, trymes--- via Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>> All,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> It appears that there are only three bleeders on the Dunlop brake system on my ‘66 2000TC. One on each front wheel and a third on the LH rear caliper.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Does that make sense, or is the reason I have had trouble bleeding the system because there’s a fourth I somehow managed to miss?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Tom
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>>> 
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>>>> inkspotco.com · 250 864 5619 · in at inkspotco.com
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